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471 viewsLooking forward, this is the point where the main heater duct connects to the forward 'Y' where some heat can be diverted to the interior floor vent that is between the driver/passenger seats that points into the center of the Bus. Here the flap is closed so all heated air goes to the front of the Bus.
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356 viewsFlap fully open, allowing some of the heated air to divert into the center of the Bus for the rear passengers.
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352 viewsHere is the flapper box that sits above the heat exchangers. This is the closed position so all air exits out the "bell" (right-most part of the flapper box) and into the atmosphere. Air is always flowing through the heat exchangers -- it just goes into the interior or vents to the outside.
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334 viewsThis is the flapper opened 1/2-way. So some heated air will enter the cabin and some will exit to the atmosphere.
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347 viewsHere the flapper is opened all of the way so all of the heated air goes into the Bus interior. This system is used by all the Types of engines (Type I/II, III, & IV).
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406 viewsMeasure the length needed to be wrapped, add 1/2" to 1" extra, and cut with ordinary scissors. The wrap I used was 16" and it worked well to wrap the circumference of the duct with a little over-lap. Put the over-lap seam down so if water should get in, it will drain out. I had 11" and 8" zip-ties so I used them together to hold the wrap. Snug it down until it just dimples the insulation; don't reef down on it and over-tighten it!
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455 viewsUnder the pedal area. The section behind it isn't insulated yet...
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392 views...but now it is!
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405 viewsUse a split-seam wire loom around the e-brake cable to keep it from rubbing a groove into the insulation.
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399 viewsWhere it ends. Give or take several inches :-)
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395 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).
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393 viewsNotice that I put a length of split-loom over the cable and wrapped the insulation over it. Again, the split-loom keep the cable from cutting into the insulation.
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370 viewsThis picture and the next show that the corner is cut and folded onto itself. It's best to have over-lapping than a gap in the insulation.
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374 views
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338 views
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444 viewsI put a scrap piece of insulation (that I removed from the corner) under the split-loom to fully cover the duct.
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375 viewsSame duct, just took the picture from the left side of the Bus. Wrapping this duct is likely the most difficult of all the ducts so go slow and think. I know the pictures aren't a huge help but they give an idea. I'm sure there's more than one way to insulate this loop.
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380 viewsThis is a view -- looking to the front of the Bus -- of the dreaded "Y" section where the heat exchanger ducts merge to the center tunnel duct.
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377 viewsI wasn't able to fully wrap this piece. It was a real pain to get the insulation on top of it. Since it is already insulated from the factory I didn't worry much about cutting up some insulation and wrapping the bottom. Maybe at a later date. Notice that I did put an 18" sheet across the top of the heat exchanger ducts that go over the torsion housing. What a pain in the neck! Trying to wrap this section wasn't worth it, with the tubes, guides, wires, and shifter parts all in the way -- very busy area!
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423 viewsLooking forward at the center section. I clipped off the stock duct zip-ties, wrapped the duct, and then zip-tied the duct back to the mounting points.
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