 Last additions - How-to |
561 viewsWill even work for my son's bicycle :-)Jun 17, 2017
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1166 viewsHere is my Sport Classic in the new Derek Weaver vise.
I kept the original wheel stop because it is in a stronger mounting location. Using the supplied DW wheel stop would require mounting it on the vertical strip just under the lift bed. That is welded on and could possibly bend if struck too hard when rolling the bike against it. It would also require drilling two more holes...meh, why bother?
https://www.derekweaver.com/bikers-garage/motorcycle-lift-parts-accessories/w-vise-motorcycle-vise-tire-clamp/
Jun 17, 2017
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Mounting measurements573 viewsAll measurements are from the inside boundaries. Final measurements may slightly differ (~1/8") after bolts are tightened. This won't affect operation.
Drilling requires a 1/2" drill bit for metal. All of the holes in the vise parts are on the large side so there is a little bit of room for small tweaks in mounting positioning.
Jun 17, 2017
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564 viewsSport bike clamped in without straps.Jun 17, 2017
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537 viewsJun 17, 2017
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557 viewsJun 17, 2017
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583 viewsMy Diavel Strada (cruiser-ish) clamped in without straps.Jun 17, 2017
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611 viewsDue to some minor slop in vise, gently press an object in the vise (I used a 2x4) and then tighten the bolts in a star pattern.
While the clamp could be mounted the other direction it would likely interfere with a bike that has deep fenders. Also, the clamp would need to be opened more to allow the axle, calipers, and axle sliders past.Jun 17, 2017
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583 viewsI placed a thin ruler under the clamp that moves and then bolted the screwing mechanism to it. This gave the bottom of the clamp a tiny bit clearance to better move over the surface of the lift. Yeah, I'm being anal and it's probably not necessary.Jun 17, 2017
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568 viewsI chased the clamp bolt holes with a tap to expose the bare metal. I opted to not use the supplied lock washers because I don't like the idea of them digging into the paint and exposing the metal to air and moisture (rust). So ALL fasteners have blue Loctite on them to hold them in place. I used a flat washer under every bolt head and under every nut.Jun 17, 2017
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612 viewsHere is my Sport Classic (sport bike) in the original Harbor Freight clamp that comes with the lift.Jun 17, 2017
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Reference shot352 viewsRear mounted gear box. On left side of trailer looking to the right side.Oct 19, 2014
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Reference shot337 viewsRear mounted gear box. On left side of trailer looking to the right side.Oct 19, 2014
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Reference shot350 viewsForward mounted gear box. On left side of trailer looking to the right side. Notice that I added a steel roll pin to the front of the gear box, just in case I need to crank from the front.Oct 19, 2014
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Reference: Front gear box354 viewsPlanetary pin on left side of box (bottom of picture), drive shaft with roll pin is on the right side of the picture.Oct 16, 2014
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390 viewsPermatex 2A gasket silicone is what I smeared on the mating surfaces of the case half instead of using a gasket.Oct 16, 2014
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Reference: Rear gear box, front side.393 viewsFront side of rear gear box. Steel roll pin is 3/16" x 1-1/4". This is where the drive shaft fits.Oct 16, 2014
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Reference: Rear gear box, rear side.406 viewsRear side of rear gear box. Steel roll pin is 3/16" diameter by 1-1/2" long. This is where the crank handle connects. The zinc washer is 2" diameter with a 3/4" hole and is a tad thicker than the original one (I couldn't find a thin one). The grommet between the washer and case is 1-5/8" outside diameter (OD) and 1/4" thick so it's just slightly thinner than the original one.Oct 16, 2014
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406 viewsThe repaired pin in place. Thin plastic washer goes between the gear (front and rear gears) and the case.Oct 11, 2014
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409 viewsIndexes all lined up. Ready for the case halves to be mated now.Oct 11, 2014
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