 Last additions - How-to |
275 viewsBefore...Jan 23, 2010
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275 views...after.Jan 23, 2010
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285 views...and after!Jan 23, 2010
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275 viewsRight headlight before...Jan 23, 2010
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270 viewsBefore...Jan 23, 2010
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261 views...after first pad...Jan 23, 2010
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270 viewsTa-da! Big improvement. Neither one looked brand-new but they sure looked a LOT better after I was done. At least now you can see reflections in the plastic cover. You couldn't see them before.Jan 23, 2010
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278 viewsPut tape around the headlamp to protect the paint. I initially used a battery-powered drill (pictured) but the battery was low on charge so I switched to my 6-amp drill. Locked the trigger on and started polishing. Very easy to do and I overlapped per the instructions, moving roughly a half-inch, back-n-forth across the headlamp then some lesser work on the turn signal area (it wasn't as badly pitted).Jan 23, 2010
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269 viewsLeft headlamp before. Lot's of abuse hitting that plastic!Jan 23, 2010
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255 views...after second pad.Jan 23, 2010
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278 viewsThis is it. Comes with pad holder and six polishing pads. It was $9 less than the 3M product and worked great. The headlights were badly pitted but not quite yellowed. I think glass covers would've been a better idea but... I used one pad per headlamp/turn signal (the whole headlight cover) then used another pad that I shared between the headlamps so for my application it was 1.5 pads per headlamp. If your covers aren't as bad then one should be fine.Jan 23, 2010
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476 viewsClose up of mounting the VR to the back of the gauge body.Jan 09, 2010
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399 viewsHere's the VR (voltage regulator) information. This is what you need. I got mine for $3.15 at Norvac Electronics, Inc. You can also get it at Fry's. NTE1932, IC voltage regulator, positive 10-volts, 1-amp.Jan 09, 2010
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512 viewsWhat it looks like under the dash when put back together. The resistors aren't touching anything and there's no tension on them.Jan 09, 2010
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487 viewsAnother view.Jan 09, 2010
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524 viewsAll connected. Use the Bentley wiring diagram to assist but this is basically how it's wired. Remember, you're simply replacing the vibrator with the VR and using a resistor pack in-line with the fuel gauge sender to bring the voltage down to a reasonable level.
+12V (black wire from gauge cluster) -> VR -> gauge -> resistor pack -> tank sender (brown w/black stripe wire)Jan 09, 2010
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430 views...as can be seen here. I again used Plasti Dip to cover/protect the exposed wire. Use one female spade and one male spade connector. The female will be connected to the fuel gauge and the male will be connected to the brown with black stripe wire that goes to the fuel gauge sending unit.Jan 09, 2010
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418 viewsI used a small zip-tie to keep the resistors together while working on them. Not critical to have but makes the pack more sturdy and easier to handle. You can also see that I bent the wires back on themselves, essentially making them thicker. This allowed me to crimp spade connectors to them...Jan 09, 2010
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414 viewsI used "Plasti Dip" over the joint as it's an electrical insulator and will protect the joint. It's thick and simply paints on.Jan 09, 2010
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466 viewsHere are the resistors...beefy! They are 3 watts each. If you use a smaller wattage resistor they will get hot!! These will get warm but not hot. One is 1-ohm and the other 16-ohms. You wire them in series so you get a total of 17-ohms resistance. So you can use any combination of resistors you want, just shoot for 17-ohms. This puts my gas gauge needle right on the first white mark (left side) of the red Reserve section but the needle will go a little past the Full mark when the tank is topped up. Add more resistance to have the needle move down more but I'm guessing that a total of 20-ohms would be the max to use.Jan 09, 2010
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