 Last additions - Zoom-zoom |
Before...413 viewsThe bottom of the switch housing is at 34".Jul 03, 2011
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Before...467 viewsYard stick shows 32" at bar-end mirror mount.Jul 03, 2011
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Before...398 viewsJul 03, 2011
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Before...468 viewsJul 03, 2011
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Before...468 viewsJul 03, 2011
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Before...542 viewsJul 03, 2011
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Before (stock clip-ons)...621 viewsJul 03, 2011
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1880 viewsSpace is now available. I'll be using this to house my Dynojet PowerCommander III.Jun 01, 2011
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1603 viewsNow insert the right bolt in the R/R and tighten into the seat pan's captured nut. Remove the left bolt, apply Loc-tite (just like the other two fasteners) and tighten it to the bracket. Very snug but not so tight that you strip out the threads in the metal!Jun 01, 2011
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Mounted and wired!1735 viewsThis is how it looks when done.Jun 01, 2011
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1654 viewsNext, loosely put in the left bolt. This will help keep the left R/R hole lined up.Jun 01, 2011
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1646 viewsPosition the bracket with the right bolt, having the hole centered on it. Tighten the counter-sunk bolt (left side) into the bracket and seat pan's captured nut. Remove the bolt from the right side.Jun 01, 2011
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1775 viewsThe MOSFET R/R, painted bracket, and stainless-steel fasteners. Blue Loc-tite is necessary on all three fasteners. The counter-sink bolt uses a 4mm Allen while the two cap bolts use a 5mm Allen wrench.Jun 01, 2011
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Added: Everything you need to know to mount a MOSFET R/R!2001 viewsHere's the bracket I made from some scrap steel I had. It's 3/16" (5mm) thick. If you use a different thickness just make sure the piece used is thick enough to hold 4 threads at a MINIMUM! You want plenty of fastener thread engagement for the M6x1.00mm tap as that is where one side of the MOSFET R/R will be mounted. The chamfered hole is made with a 17/64" bit and then widened via chamfering. NOTE: Prior to this I had my MOSFET R/R mounted in the stock location with just one bolt and had NO ISSUES with it coming loose/moving.Jun 01, 2011
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720 viewsClose-up of the front view installation. Nice and neat, eh?May 14, 2011
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727 viewsFinished view from the left side.May 14, 2011
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574 viewsBreather line re-installed and bracket re-mounted with both oil lines now inside. Now connect the line to the top of the oil cooler and tighten the bottom connection. The connections are snugged to 24 ft-lbs -- that's not very tight so go easy! Again, use both 19mm wrenches to tighten things. Also, smear engine oil on the O-rings before slipping them into the connector. Make sure the insertion is straight and smooth as you do NOT want to tear or pinch them!May 14, 2011
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573 viewsSlide the bracket back down (shown here where it comes from), pop the breather back in the loop, then bolt the bracket back onto the engine.May 14, 2011
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578 viewsHere's both oil lines in the bracket.May 14, 2011
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636 viewsWith patience and a little wiggling, use the screwdriver to help coax the coupling nut into the bracket.May 14, 2011
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