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12970 viewsThe far left box shows plastic removed for the HID wires and the 3-prong plug that normally goes on the halogen bulb. Make the left [driver] side slightly bigger to accommodate all wires. Should be snug! Center box shows how bulb retaining hook is moved to under the frame and the far right box shows how the retaining wire is positioned to hold the HID bulb in. It will require a slight bending of the wire but not too much because you don't want to break the spring steel!!
22907 viewsHere's the wiring pushed down in the slot and ready for the cover to be placed on. Note that on the right [passenger] side there was no need for the bulb plug so I left it inside the light housing and made the wire pass-through notch big enough for just the HID wiring.
32891 viewsThe left cover has been modified; the right has not. The covers are not "sided", they are the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up. Modify them both the exact same way.
2611 viewsHere you can see the drilled holes. The left one is after drilling with the larger bit. The right hole is just after I drilled with the pilot bit. I have a light below the seat pan.
Side bar: Foggy breath guard2472 viewsIt attaches to the chin bar and cheek pads using velcro. It stays put!
2454 viewsHere's what you'll see when you remove the seat. Everything is in the stock location and nicely packaged. The stock location does allow air flow but it's not the greatest.

For clarification, I refer to the regulator/rectifier as "R/R" to keep things short-n-sweet.
2334 viewsShowing the latching mechanism. The lower stud locks into the side tab.
2272 viewsThis part is optional but here's what I did. I had some aluminum, butyl-backed tape that's water-proof. I lightly traced the outline of the R/R and cut the tape to slightly larger than the outline. The tape I had is just shy of 2". I used two pieces of the tape, each 4.5" long. I also cleaned the underside of the seat pan with household rubbing alcohol to insure a strong bond.
2242 viewsVideo showing how to lift the seat pan and pass the R/R through.

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2169 viewsUsing a 8mm socket, remove the bolts from the R/R and the two that hold the seat pan to the frame in the rear.
2154 viewsYou can see in this picture that the R/R wiring is protected. Even the R/R is forward of center from the tire so it won't get too abused.
2152 viewsTo mount the R/R, I used two 6mm x 1.00 x 25mm stainless steel cap head bolts. Between the R/R and seat pan are two stainless steel washers (same size as the bolts). These act as a spacer to put an air gap between the R/R and the seat pan. Remember, we want air flow all around the R/R so don't mount it flush to the seat pan!

I do NOT recommend using the stock bolts! I used stainless steel since the fasteners will be exposed to the elements and we don't want to deal with rust later on. The bolts are also 5mm longer and this allows more of the bolt to thread into the brass nuts. I also used blue thread locker.
2146 viewsI used a 3/32" drill bit to make a pilot hole in the captured brass nut. The bottom of the nut is funnel-shaped so the bit will automatically drop to the center.
2146 viewsI recommend bolting the seat pan in place before mounting the R/R. It just makes installation much, much easier. As can be seen, the R/R cabling passes through the gap between the forward seat pan clips. You can also clip the seat release cable back in. Don't forget to test fit your Irish Whiskey flask! Very important.
2107 just move it to the side or under the seat pan for the time being.
2081 viewsThe cable for the seat release is held in by two very simple compression clips. The cable will pull straight out...
2080 viewsMake sure you tap all the way through the hole. You will get a fair amount of brass flakes so be sure to vacuum your mess up! In hindsight, I'd recommend covering your tire and chain guard with a large rag.
2076 viewsHere it is, mounted and ready for action.
2068 viewsHere's the underside of the seat pan after I drilled through with the 3/16" drill bit. the 3/16" bit fits perfectly in the hole and doesn't touch the threads. You want to drill all the way through the pan!
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