 Most viewed - Passat HID install |
444 viewsCable passed through hole, ready for the gasket.
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435 viewsXentec - The kit I used. Also, remove the DRL (Daytime Running Lights) relay, #173. It's located where the fuses are but a little deeper behind the dashboard -- it easily pulls straight out. Yes, you'll have to manually turn on your lights when you drive now. You can drive with the relay intact and the lights will come one (well, ours did), but the HIDs are getting a reduced voltage and may not turn on, they could even turn off while driving due to the reduced voltage feeding them. By removing the relay you insure that they get full voltage when you turn on the headlights.
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433 viewsSeat the wiring gasket as so...pretty dang obvious. How it should look.
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The install423 viewsLiquid electrical tape used to fill in and insulate crimps. High-quality ratcheting crimpers make the difference!
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411 viewsThe plug wouldn't lock into the stock connector so I used a supplied zip-tie to bind it and electrical tape to keep it together. Notice that the RED wire mates with the YELLOW (+12 volts) bulb connector wire and the BLACK wire mates with the BROWN (ground) bulb connector wire.
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406 viewsThe interior.
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404 viewsFor the particular bulbs that came in this kit (an early version), I had to cut the wires and then feed them through the gasket. I used butt connectors and high-quality crimpers (expensive) to secure the wires.
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397 viewsTo hold the cover up while cutting, I used a 1/2" socket underneath. Use a very sharp Xacto blade and cut s-l-o-w-l-y and carefully.
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396 viewsHere's the rubber boot turned inside-out to get a better view of the inside of the gasket and the wires running through it.
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Through the rubber cover395 viewsThe following is the method I used on the left side after trying the right side by using the hard cover (described after this procedure). This is SO much easier to install and route wires, however, you MUST make sure you seal the gasket to the rubber boot so as to keep water out. I personally think this is the best way to do it with the kit I used.
I used a scrap piece of cardboard, cut in a 7/8" diameter circle, and traced the back side of the low beam rubber cover using a permanent marker.
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389 viewsFeed the harness through the rubber cup from the front side.
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386 viewsAnother view of the completed assembly. Notice that the bulb is on the inside of the rubber boot and that the bulb is still in the container. You don't want to expose the bulb until you absolutely have to, it must stay clean! You can use rubbing alcohol to wipe the bulb down if it gets dirty or you touch it -- oil from your skin is bad for the bulb!
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385 viewsTo make a nice 7/8" circle use a compass and set it to 7/16" (about 11mm).
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378 viewsGently pull on the brown and yellow wires to help keep the connector in its place when putting the rubber boot back on.
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375 viewsViewing inside after applying the RTV.
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375 viewsMy kit came with holders that the wires clip into -- notice the orientation of the tang, it faces inside so it will lock in place.
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374 viewsLocation where I placed the left side electronics. Attached by using the supplied double-sided tape (strong stuff!).
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372 viewsThe bulb I originally had for the left side was bad so I got a replacement. This had the wires through it but no connector. Overall, it is better as there was no need for me to cut the wires, push them through the gasket, and butt-crimp them. For the connection, I pushed the spade connectors into the stock connector, dabbed liquid electrical "tape" around it to electrically insulate it as well as help hold the connectors, then wrapped the connector in electrical tape to further hold the connectors in. Not ideal at all but it works.
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371 viewsBoth wires installed and ready to go.
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370 viewsWith the rubber cover turned inside-out, lift up the gasket and apply a continuous bead of silicone sealant a.k.a. RTV. This will insure a water-tight seal. Return the boot to its original state.
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