 Most viewed - 914 tranny swap |
405 views
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404 viewsEngine is supported and the jack placed for removing the tranny.
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404 viewsNew firewall shifter bushing installed (soak in BOILING HOT WATER for ~30-60 seconds, place in hole, put a 24mm socket against it, and hit with hammer). The vice-grips greatly helped get the cabin shift rod into the under-engine shift rod joint.
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401 views
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400 viewsTranny is out of the car...
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393 views
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393 viewsWhen putting the tranny mounts back together make sure you line up the peg with the hole to keep things from rotating.
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390 viewsI put a rag under the cabin shift rod to make it easier to maneuver when I had to put it back into the firewall bushing. Not really necessary if you have skinny fingers like me.
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388 views
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387 views
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387 viewsThese next pictures show where I had the jack pad under the tranny. Note that the body is not centered!
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386 viewsIt's all a matter of backing the tranny out, lowering it a little, backing it out, lowering it a little, backing it out, etc.
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386 viewsThe left side is a pain in the neck, getting the CV past the starter, but mostly because it's greasy and just slows down the process as you wiggle back and down, back and down...
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384 viewsBecause I had to swap tail covers, I removed the tranny mounts completely from the body.
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380 viewsLocation of the upper left nut (17mm) in the engine bay where the tranny mounts to the engine. The bolt is on the inner side of the starter and is used to hold the starter as well as affix the tranny to the engine. This nut can be removed without having to hold the bolt head as the bolt head is captured against the starter and thus won't rotate on you.
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380 views
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379 views
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379 viewsThe tranny getting separated from the engine!
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373 viewsThis is looking up at the tranny. Circled is the left lower engine/tranny nut that needs to be removed, just like the right side (the nut is fastened to a stud).
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371 viewsWe have separation!!
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