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447 viewsI ground the planetary pin level and then drilled a 3/16" hole in it to a half-inch depth. I got a piece of 3/16" rod from the local hardware store, beveled the edge, then pushed it into the hole.
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446 viewsFlap fully open, allowing some of the heated air to divert into the center of the Bus for the rear passengers.
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445 views
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445 views...and now it's in the 'locked' position. I noticed many of the electrical connectors had some sort of lock on them. If you see a red tab/button then that's a connector lock.
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445 viewsThe ground lug I used on the left side. Use a ring connector for the grounds. This insures the nut will still make a connection even if the nut gets loosened.
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445 viewsNext, I used a 15/64" (almost 6mm which would work fine) and hand drilled the hole for the grommet (yes, I twisted it with my bare fingers). I wanted to make sure I drilled straight and using a hand-held drill would've caused the hole to be at a slight angle due to the head light housing interfering with the drill chuck.
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445 viewsRepaired pin cut, ground further, and beveled. Fits in the hole nicely! Remember, the planetary ring will move side-to-side so make sure the pin isn't butted against the end of the hole. Allow for the movement.
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444 viewsHere's the VR. The center pin is a ground and the easiest way to ground it is to CAREFULLY bend it back onto the backside of the VR body. It will then be pressed against the gauge cluster body that is grounded. The pins are delicate and if you bend them too much they will break!
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Day example.444 viewsDay time demo. Also on YouTube.com at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sr75SJdNsJQ&feature=relmfu
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443 views
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443 viewsRight side ground...had to use a 10mm box wrench (spanner).
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443 viewsCloser-up. Exploded view. Notice pin is short...it came to us broken.
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442 views
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442 views
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442 views
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442 viewsHarbor Freight trim tool (nylon kit, non-scratching, less than $6) used to pry the light switch out. Very easy.
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442 viewsFog harness using a hook on the right side radiator fan surround.
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441 viewsXentec - The kit I used. Also, remove the DRL (Daytime Running Lights) relay, #173. It's located where the fuses are but a little deeper behind the dashboard -- it easily pulls straight out. Yes, you'll have to manually turn on your lights when you drive now. You can drive with the relay intact and the lights will come one (well, ours did), but the HIDs are getting a reduced voltage and may not turn on, they could even turn off while driving due to the reduced voltage feeding them. By removing the relay you insure that they get full voltage when you turn on the headlights.
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441 viewsSeat the wiring gasket as so...pretty dang obvious. How it should look.
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441 viewsThis shows just how much the head lamps are angled on top. The left side has the LED array far back (towards the engine) whereas on the right side I wasn't as accurate and the LED array is about 3mm-5mm more forward (away from the engine). This clearly shows how the lip on the head lamp disburses the light. The left side is what I was originally looking for so I should've been more patient when installing the right side. Experience gained.
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