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All done!334 viewsLights on. I took this picture with the flash to dim the LED array as they are very bright.
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333 viewsFeed the harness through the rubber cup from the front side.
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333 viewsThe plug wouldn't lock into the stock connector so I used a supplied zip-tie to bind it and electrical tape to keep it together. Notice that the RED wire mates with the YELLOW (+12 volts) bulb connector wire and the BLACK wire mates with the BROWN (ground) bulb connector wire.
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Fuse tap!332 viewsThis is how to easily and safely tap into some power without compromising the stock wiring or running a long lead through the firewall. I cut the bullet connector off so I could pass the wire through the grommet hole and so I could use one of my own spade connectors. To be on the safe side, make sure the fuse tap can handle 25A to 30A minimum. A 10A fuse tap won't work! The bottom slot is for the placing the stock fuse while the top is for the accessory and thus the red wire leading from the fuse tap.
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329 viewsFacing into the sun, the LEDs can still be seen although they aren't as bright as dedicated OEM units found on other vehicles.
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328 viewsLoosely held in.
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328 viewsIn the shade.
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328 viewsParking lights on.
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326 viewsLocation where I placed the left side electronics. Attached by using the supplied double-sided tape (strong stuff!).
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326 viewsWire passed through and new connector crimped on. Fuse tap is ready to replace the M6 20A fuse. I chose this one because it's powered only when the van is on. This fuse is for the #1 ignition switched power plug and rain sensor...our van doesn't have a rain sensor so it's got power to "spare"...heeheehee.
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326 viewsThe fuse tab plugged in and with the stock 20A fuse in the BOTTOM. The top fuse will be a 1A to 3A item -- what ever is the smallest I can find -- since the LED array doesn't pull an appreciable amount of current.
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326 viewsFeed the power feed wire through the grommet and crimp on the connector. It should be snug in order to keep moisture and dust out.
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