 Most viewed - How-to |
409 views
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409 viewsOEM DRL on.
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408 viewsFor the particular bulbs that came in this kit (an early version), I had to cut the wires and then feed them through the gasket. I used butt connectors and high-quality crimpers (expensive) to secure the wires.
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405 views
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405 viewsThe retaining plate on top of the sliding switch assembly.
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404 viewsTo hold the cover up while cutting, I used a 1/2" socket underneath. Use a very sharp Xacto blade and cut s-l-o-w-l-y and carefully.
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404 viewsHere's the high/low beam switch all buttoned up.
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401 viewsHere's the rubber boot turned inside-out to get a better view of the inside of the gasket and the wires running through it.
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All done!400 viewsLights on. I took this picture with the flash to dim the LED array as they are very bright.
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Through the rubber cover399 viewsThe following is the method I used on the left side after trying the right side by using the hard cover (described after this procedure). This is SO much easier to install and route wires, however, you MUST make sure you seal the gasket to the rubber boot so as to keep water out. I personally think this is the best way to do it with the kit I used.
I used a scrap piece of cardboard, cut in a 7/8" diameter circle, and traced the back side of the low beam rubber cover using a permanent marker.
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398 viewsFacing into the sun, the LEDs can still be seen although they aren't as bright as dedicated OEM units found on other vehicles.
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397 viewsLeft heat exchanger accordion duct, looking forward. For some reason, the diameter was more than 16" so the wrap didn't fully cover it.
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397 viewsThe red wire in the background is the turn signal tap while the white wire in the foreground is the feed to the DRL array.
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397 viewsJust after sunset. At the time I took these pictures it was brighter out than what appears in the images. The LEDs are bright enough to the camera that it used a faster shutter speed, thus making the image look darker than it really is.
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394 viewsRight rear foam padding.
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393 viewsFeed the harness through the rubber cup from the front side.
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392 viewsAnother view of the completed assembly. Notice that the bulb is on the inside of the rubber boot and that the bulb is still in the container. You don't want to expose the bulb until you absolutely have to, it must stay clean! You can use rubbing alcohol to wipe the bulb down if it gets dirty or you touch it -- oil from your skin is bad for the bulb!
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392 viewsWhen putting the female part of the switch onto the male part, make sure the sliding contact doesn't catch on the electrical pads on the female piece. Use a scribe or small, flat screwdriver blade to hold it down as you slide the female part on.
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391 viewsTo make a nice 7/8" circle use a compass and set it to 7/16" (about 11mm).
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Fuse tap!391 viewsThis is how to easily and safely tap into some power without compromising the stock wiring or running a long lead through the firewall. I cut the bullet connector off so I could pass the wire through the grommet hole and so I could use one of my own spade connectors. To be on the safe side, make sure the fuse tap can handle 25A to 30A minimum. A 10A fuse tap won't work! The bottom slot is for the placing the stock fuse while the top is for the accessory and thus the red wire leading from the fuse tap.
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