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Fuse tap!385 viewsThis is how to easily and safely tap into some power without compromising the stock wiring or running a long lead through the firewall. I cut the bullet connector off so I could pass the wire through the grommet hole and so I could use one of my own spade connectors. To be on the safe side, make sure the fuse tap can handle 25A to 30A minimum. A 10A fuse tap won't work! The bottom slot is for the placing the stock fuse while the top is for the accessory and thus the red wire leading from the fuse tap.
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384 viewsGrommet installed. It's low enough that it will not interfere with the closing of the relay box lid. The fuse tap wire is 16 gauge so I used a grommet that had a 5/32" bore and 1/4" x 3/32" groove.
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381 viewsWhat the interior looks like. I set the mirror so it was centered in the housing. I started at the 11 o'clock position and worked my way anti-clockwise (aka counter-clockwise), gently prying the mirror clips away from the ring mount.
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380 viewsParking lights on.
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378 viewsGently pull on the brown and yellow wires to help keep the connector in its place when putting the rubber boot back on.
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378 viewsWire passed through and new connector crimped on. Fuse tap is ready to replace the M6 20A fuse. I chose this one because it's powered only when the van is on. This fuse is for the #1 ignition switched power plug and rain sensor...our van doesn't have a rain sensor so it's got power to "spare"...heeheehee.
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378 views
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377 views
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376 viewsMy kit came with holders that the wires clip into -- notice the orientation of the tang, it faces inside so it will lock in place.
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376 viewsRouting the power feed wire along an existing loom.
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375 viewsViewing inside after applying the RTV.
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375 viewsFeed the power feed wire through the grommet and crimp on the connector. It should be snug in order to keep moisture and dust out.
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374 viewsLocation where I placed the left side electronics. Attached by using the supplied double-sided tape (strong stuff!).
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374 viewsThat's a yard stick. There's 15" of leg room there.
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373 viewsJust a close-up of the power feed from the relay box tapped into the main power feed line that goes between the DRL LED array. The connector that's connecting white wire to red wire is what's feeding the DRL LED array.
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372 viewsThe bulb I originally had for the left side was bad so I got a replacement. This had the wires through it but no connector. Overall, it is better as there was no need for me to cut the wires, push them through the gasket, and butt-crimp them. For the connection, I pushed the spade connectors into the stock connector, dabbed liquid electrical "tape" around it to electrically insulate it as well as help hold the connectors, then wrapped the connector in electrical tape to further hold the connectors in. Not ideal at all but it works.
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372 viewsThe floor. Slider door edge trim removed, folding table removed, forward carpet trim screws removed, and the cut made along the forward edge of the rear seat.
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372 viewsClose-up. The black plastic plugs are for seat belt mountings. The attachment points for a 2-person or 3-person seat are there in the middle, just waiting to get used :-)
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371 viewsWith the rubber cover turned inside-out, lift up the gasket and apply a continuous bead of silicone sealant a.k.a. RTV. This will insure a water-tight seal. Return the boot to its original state.
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371 viewsBoth wires installed and ready to go.
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