 Most viewed - How-to |
370 viewsWith the rubber cover turned inside-out, lift up the gasket and apply a continuous bead of silicone sealant a.k.a. RTV. This will insure a water-tight seal. Return the boot to its original state.
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370 viewsWith low beams on. Very visible from the sides.
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369 viewsTo replace the mirror, the guide pins (red) insert into the guide holes. The spring clips (blue) go into their respective cavities. They don't clip to anything. The tabs (yellow) on either side of the guide pins are what clip to the circular motor assembly in the mirror housing. I gently pushed the mirror in at the 1 o'clock position and pushed the rest of it in slowly in a clock-wise motion, listening/feeling each clip (yellow) catch the ring. Use leather gloves when installing so if it breaks you don't get cut. It takes firm, evenly distributed pressure to seat the mirror.
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369 viewsThis is the back side (duh) of the HEATED, WIDE-ANGLE mirror for the left side-view mirror. This fits the North American vehicles perfectly! Remember to push the electrical connectors on/off several times so they make metal-to-metal contact and coat with a dielectric grease to slow corrosion.
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Through the hard cover368 viewsJust an FYI: I do NOT recommend this method! PITA if you have any issues. Go through the rubber cover.
Make a template that is 7/8" in diameter and trace with a permanent marker. Or put a nail or screw into the center of the circle and tap it so it leaves a dimple -- that's where you will drill. I used this location because it gave me the most slack in the wiring. The shop that does this recommended not putting the gasket in the center of the hard cover because there wouldn't be enough wiring slack.
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367 viewsSecond layer under right front carpet. Each cell is filled with sand. Pad is not bonded to the pan, it's simply laying there.
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Right side367 viewsThis is the side I started on and passed the harness through the hard cover as recommended by a shop that does the procedure. What a MAJOR pain in the butt! Ideally, it would be best to REMOVE the airbox in order to get enough space to maneuver around; a much bigger task than I cared to do after 3 hours of work involved already! I have long thin fingers and trying to get the bulb in the socket, as well as the gasket into the hard cover, was quite difficult. Anyone with thicker and/or shorter fingers would likely have an even more difficult time as the space is just too cramped around that area.
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367 viewsStock 20A fuse removed and put in its new home.
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367 viewsMeh. Fuzzy picture of the mirror out and the plastic (nylon?) upholstery pry bar tool I used to remove the mirror. Came in a $5 kit from Harbor Freight. Since the mirror was cracked I could've used a steel clawed hammer to remove it.
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366 viewsLoosely held in.
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365 views2-person seat installed, yeay!!
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365 viewsShowing the finished wiring.
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365 viewsLow beams on.
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364 viewsThe round disc simply pulls off the accelerator pedal stop. Carpet can then be lifted over the stop.
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364 viewsParking lights on.
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Before and after - against the garage door361 viewsBefore - Low beams.
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360 viewsThe original bulbs came with a plastic ring to help hold them in their shipping case. I split it and put it behind the bulb, then carefully pushed the bulb retaining tangs onto the plastic ring. This kept the tangs more even. Without them you'll need to push the tangs down a little bit as well as bend them inward in order to retain the bulb. I oriented the bulb just like the halogen it replaced, tab pointing up. No shadows were cast, full light is output.
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359 viewsBefore - Low beams and fogs, standing next to the B-pillar and looking forward.
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359 viewsThe cover back in place with room to spare. Keeps the engine bay looking tidy.
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358 viewsWhatever plug you may have, simply push the connectors into the gap on the inward side of the light housing as this has a good gap to hold it out of the way.
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