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Bus_duct_wrap_011.jpg
476 viewsThis picture and the next show that the corner is cut and folded onto itself. It's best to have over-lapping than a gap in the insulation.
Bus_heat_007.jpg
476 viewsHere is the flapper box that sits above the heat exchangers. This is the closed position so all air exits out the "bell" (right-most part of the flapper box) and into the atmosphere. Air is always flowing through the heat exchangers -- it just goes into the interior or vents to the outside.
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476 viewsHow it looks with the plug put all back together.
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475 views...then soldered them together, trimmed off the extra wire, and carefully bent it back on itself.
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473 viewsI used a small zip-tie to keep the resistors together while working on them. Not critical to have but makes the pack more sturdy and easier to handle. You can also see that I bent the wires back on themselves, essentially making them thicker. This allowed me to crimp spade connectors to them...
IMAG1657.jpg
473 viewsAll the bearings are roller bearings and they are held in with the grease. When cleaning the grease and wiping the bearings they will most likely fall out so work over a soft, plush towel to keep them from bouncing away. Pack the bearings and cage surfaces with fresh grease and slip any fallen bearings back in. You should see no gaps between the bearings. Pack more grease in when they're all in and roll them around with your finger to spread the fresh grease around. It will hold them in there.
IMAG1695.jpg
473 viewsPermatex 2A gasket silicone is what I smeared on the mating surfaces of the case half instead of using a gasket.
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Applying the LED array to the head light.472 viewsI started from the top (right side of picture) and carefully removed the LED backing tape as I move towards the front of the head light. Just eye-balled the application but kept it more towards the inside of the light (engine side). This allows more light to be spread out onto the head light lens and disperse the light. I put a rubber tube around the wires to protect them from chaffing against the metal. Be sure to clean the lens well! I used rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.
aero_2.gif
469 views
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469 viewsHere's the VR (voltage regulator) information. This is what you need. I got mine for $3.15 at Norvac Electronics, Inc. You can also get it at Fry's. NTE1932, IC voltage regulator, positive 10-volts, 1-amp.
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469 viewsTa-da!
IMAG1650.jpg
468 viewsInside of forward gear and planetary gear mating teeth.
aero_1.gif
467 views
Bus_duct_wrap_012.jpg
465 views
aero_tires_1.jpg
463 views
Bus_duct_wrap_022.jpg
463 views
aero_08.jpg
462 views
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Getting the power ready for the turn signal LED array.462 viewsUse a BLUE wire tap-in like what I show. The ones that are RED are for smaller wire sizes and the YELLOW ones are for larger wires. I prefer these because when you insert the insulated male connector it makes a positive fit and keeps the tap locked on to the wire. -- Left side: Tap into the white wire with the GREEN stripe. -- Right side: Tap into the white wire with the BROWN stripe. -- FYI for both lights: The black wire [on the outside] is ground, the middle wire is the parking light and the other outside wire is the turn signal.
aero_010.jpg
460 views
Bus_heat_008.jpg
460 viewsThis is the flapper opened 1/2-way. So some heated air will enter the cabin and some will exit to the atmosphere.
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