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573 viewsBreather line re-installed and bracket re-mounted with both oil lines now inside. Now connect the line to the top of the oil cooler and tighten the bottom connection. The connections are snugged to 24 ft-lbs -- that's not very tight so go easy! Again, use both 19mm wrenches to tighten things. Also, smear engine oil on the O-rings before slipping them into the connector. Make sure the insertion is straight and smooth as you do NOT want to tear or pinch them!
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572 viewsUnder the pedal area. The section behind it isn't insulated yet...
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572 viewsRight fog light installed, front view. Note that adjusting screw is always at the top.
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570 viewsSlide the bracket back down (shown here where it comes from), pop the breather back in the loop, then bolt the bracket back onto the engine.
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569 viewsPush the retaining clip down and then to the top of the light housing, then pivot it up and out of the way to the left side of the light housing.
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...after.566 views
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566 viewsLooking down into the bulb housing cavity. The reflector will need to be moved forward just a tad, like a couple millimeters, to clear the taller HID bulb. If you get flickering or the bulb doesn't light up after installing the HID bulb then chances are good that the bulb is touching the reflector and shorting out.
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563 viewsOther angle.
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562 viewsThe bulb connector pulls straight off. Notice that it is one unit. The high-beam bulb has one connector on the bulb and a separate one on the bulb holder. The high-beam bulb is also smaller. Thus it's easy to determine which bulb is which. However, to give yourself some additional maneuvering room, you may want to disconnect the high-beam connectors and remove the high-beam bulb as well.
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559 viewsI used a scrap piece of the 3M film to make a surround for the body work around ignition cylinder.
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558 viewsAnother view.
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558 viewsPut some blue Loctite on the bolt threads and snug the new cover back on. No need to be a gorilla and wrench down! The blue Loctite will insure the bolts don't back out. Here it is, installed.
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557 viewsThis is how you begin to stuff the electronics into the headlight bucket. Follow along...
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555 viewsLooking that the bulb reflector/cover from the front of the headlight. Use the eraser end of a pencil through the opening to GENTLY push the reflector forward -- towards the headlight glass -- so the HID bulb won't touch it. Every panel on the reflector is EASILY bent so take your time and GO SLOWLY! You want to push from the center of the reflector and just a couple millimeters. Test fit the HID bulb and gently wiggle it around, feeling that the tip doesn't touch the reflector.
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553 viewsI just HAD to take her for a buzz around the block and since I'm used to my Goldwing I hit the throttle a tad too much and lifted the front...
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552 viewsOut and resting on wood blocks.
Minimum engine/tranny dimensions for space needed are:
Width = 43"
Height = 21"
Length = 25" for engine
= 48" for engine and tranny
= 55" for engine, tranny and muffler
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552 viewsFirst, remove the two acorn nuts from the bottom of the headlight fairing. The order is nut, washer, fairing mount, then star-washer. Strada owners should remove the windscreen for easier access to everything. Next, snip the zip-tie on the left side that holds the two cables that feed the headlight. The cable holder is on the frame head. The two headlight cables are below it and towards the center rear of the frame head. That yellowish connector you see below the snips is one of them.
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Formula Vee tail shifter551 views
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550 viewsEngine lowered and pulled back a little so left axle can be maneuvered to the top of the starter.
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550 viewsSC-1000 to tower, requesting fly-by!
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