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494 viewsRemove the headlight and place on a thick towel. The low-beam is at the top of the headlight, which is the top of this picture. This shows the back removed and the bulb area exposed -- there are 7 screws that hold the back on. The greyish-silver bolt at the 11 o'clock position on the outside edge is the headlight vertical adjustment. To get more operating space inside the housing I rotated mine anti-clockwise 6 turns. Make sure you mark the bolt with a spot on the housing so you know where to return it when everything is all installed.
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494 viewsThe bulb connector pulls straight off. Notice that it is one unit. The high-beam bulb has one connector on the bulb and a separate one on the bulb holder. The high-beam bulb is also smaller. Thus it's easy to determine which bulb is which. However, to give yourself some additional maneuvering room, you may want to disconnect the high-beam connectors and remove the high-beam bulb as well.
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493 viewsChin bar in back position.
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492 viewsOther angle.
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490 viewsThis is how you begin to stuff the electronics into the headlight bucket. Follow along...
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486 viewsSC-1000 to tower, requesting fly-by!
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486 views
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485 viewsHID on the left, OEM H7 on the right. Notice that the HID bulb is taller.
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482 viewsI just HAD to take her for a buzz around the block and since I'm used to my Goldwing I hit the throttle a tad too much and lifted the front...
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481 viewsRight fog light installed, front view. Note that adjusting screw is always at the top.
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479 viewsHow the HID bulb looks when installed. It can only go in one way so it's pretty easy. Don't do it now as we need to get the electronics installed first!
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478 viewsAnother view.
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478 viewsRaw handle bar. Removing the left side is easy. Squirt some Windex(R) under the grip to help loosen its "grip" and make it easier to slip off.
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477 viewsI put a scrap piece of insulation (that I removed from the corner) under the split-loom to fully cover the duct.
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474 viewsPush the retaining clip down and then to the top of the light housing, then pivot it up and out of the way to the left side of the light housing.
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473 viewsNapoleon mirror removed.
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...after.473 views
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473 viewsLooking down into the bulb housing cavity. The reflector will need to be moved forward just a tad, like a couple millimeters, to clear the taller HID bulb. If you get flickering or the bulb doesn't light up after installing the HID bulb then chances are good that the bulb is touching the reflector and shorting out.
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473 viewsLooking that the bulb reflector/cover from the front of the headlight. Use the eraser end of a pencil through the opening to GENTLY push the reflector forward -- towards the headlight glass -- so the HID bulb won't touch it. Every panel on the reflector is EASILY bent so take your time and GO SLOWLY! You want to push from the center of the reflector and just a couple millimeters. Test fit the HID bulb and gently wiggle it around, feeling that the tip doesn't touch the reflector.
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472 viewsWhat I did was take a short piece of wire and solder it to the pin on the VR and then shrink-wrapped it to keep it insulated. I then crimped a spade connector at the end of the wire. I have a quality (a.k.a. expensive) wire crimper so I know my crimps are good and will last. The right pin (red wire) of the VR connects to the right spade/tab on the fuel gauge. The left pin (black wire) is what gets the +12 volts. Note the spade connetors are being used -- the red wire has a female spade connector and connects to the fuel gauge while the black wire has a male spade connector and is connected to the +12 volt black wire from the gauge cluster.
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