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447 viewsOut and resting on wood blocks.
Minimum engine/tranny dimensions for space needed are:
Width = 43"
Height = 21"
Length = 25" for engine
= 48" for engine and tranny
= 55" for engine, tranny and muffler
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445 viewsFirst, remove the two acorn nuts from the bottom of the headlight fairing. The order is nut, washer, fairing mount, then star-washer. Strada owners should remove the windscreen for easier access to everything. Next, snip the zip-tie on the left side that holds the two cables that feed the headlight. The cable holder is on the frame head. The two headlight cables are below it and towards the center rear of the frame head. That yellowish connector you see below the snips is one of them.
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444 viewsThe mirror end assembly. Tightening the Allen bolt pulls the nut in, compressing the rubber sleeve and expanding it outward, providing a tight interference fit inside the handle bar.
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444 viewsAfter.
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442 viewsI used a 7/16" socket -- none of my standard metric sockets fit! -- to carefully snug down the VR. I used the stock sheet metal screw from the original vibrator to secure the VR down. I also put a stainless steel split washer under the head of the screw to help lock the screw in place. Just in case...
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442 viewsTo remove, simply loosen the bolt a few turns and pull the whole assembly out.
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442 viewsNew grip installed.
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442 viewsTo make life MUCH easier just remove the battery. Also remove the positive power lead (red wire I'm holding) from the fuse box as well as the cover.
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442 viewsRight fog bolted in.
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440 viewsNext, use a small screwdriver to lift the inner plug out. It only moves a few millimeters so you don't need to completely remove it!
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439 viewsMeasure the length needed to be wrapped, add 1/2" to 1" extra, and cut with ordinary scissors. The wrap I used was 16" and it worked well to wrap the circumference of the duct with a little over-lap. Put the over-lap seam down so if water should get in, it will drain out. I had 11" and 8" zip-ties so I used them together to hold the wrap. Snug it down until it just dimples the insulation; don't reef down on it and over-tighten it!
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439 viewsAll wired up, fog harness plugged in & grounded, and the fuse box ready to be re-installed. I used a stock grounding point under the module per the Routan instructions. The Chrysler instructions show the ground attached to the negative battery cable.
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439 viewsBefore, low-beam. FYI: The ground in these before/after pictures is our asphalt driveway.
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438 viewsUsing needle-nosed pliers remove the tits from inside the plug backing for the #16 and #11 holes. Don't remove the others as they fill the holes in the seal.
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438 viewsFeed your pigtail wires in, white with yellow stripe on the left in the #16 hole and the white with orange stripe on the right in the #11 hole. The numbers are on the outside of the black plug.
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438 viewsAfter, low-beam.
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437 viewsSeparate the bottom plug (black) and the seal (light blue) within. You'll need to unwrap the black electrical tape on the wiring and throw it away. This will give you the needed slack in the wiring.
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A Formula Vee for sale436 views
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434 viewsEngine lowered and pulled back a little so left axle can be maneuvered to the top of the starter.
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431 viewsSlide/peel the stock grip off.
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