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528 viewsNotice that the ballast (flat, squarish box) is going in first and the ignitor (long rectangular box) is still outside.
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527 viewsStock fascia blank removed, right side. There are four hooks (one at each corner) that hold it in. After trying to be careful removing the right side, I said to hell with it and cut the tabs on the left side and threw away the blanks.
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526 viewsTo make life MUCH easier just remove the battery. Also remove the positive power lead (red wire I'm holding) from the fuse box as well as the cover.
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524 viewsHere's the replacement cover, a Rizoma unit. All you need is a 5mm Allen wrench. Not pictured, but still needed, is some blue Loctite.
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524 viewsWires snapped in place.
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523 viewsFog wiring harness, right side, zip-tie location.
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523 viewsRemove these four bolts (4mm Allen) to free the headlight from the headlight fairing.
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522 viewsNapoleon mirror removed.
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522 viewsBefore, low-beam. FYI: The ground in these before/after pictures is our asphalt driveway.
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521 viewsSame duct, just took the picture from the left side of the Bus. Wrapping this duct is likely the most difficult of all the ducts so go slow and think. I know the pictures aren't a huge help but they give an idea. I'm sure there's more than one way to insulate this loop.
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520 viewsAll wired up, fog harness plugged in & grounded, and the fuse box ready to be re-installed. I used a stock grounding point under the module per the Routan instructions. The Chrysler instructions show the ground attached to the negative battery cable.
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520 viewsBoth top and bottom covered, LED uncovered. I know the bottom looks blueish but the film is the same color on top and bottom.
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519 viewsRemoving the speedo sender from the damaged tail cover.
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518 viewsDrive train balanced on the floor jack and on its way out.
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518 viewsShows how the top and bottom parts of the headlight fairing join.
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517 viewsNotice e-brake cable is above engine bar. Remember this when installing engine.
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517 viewsWhat I did was take a short piece of wire and solder it to the pin on the VR and then shrink-wrapped it to keep it insulated. I then crimped a spade connector at the end of the wire. I have a quality (a.k.a. expensive) wire crimper so I know my crimps are good and will last. The right pin (red wire) of the VR connects to the right spade/tab on the fuel gauge. The left pin (black wire) is what gets the +12 volts. Note the spade connetors are being used -- the red wire has a female spade connector and connects to the fuel gauge while the black wire has a male spade connector and is connected to the +12 volt black wire from the gauge cluster.
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517 viewsI used a 7/16" socket -- none of my standard metric sockets fit! -- to carefully snug down the VR. I used the stock sheet metal screw from the original vibrator to secure the VR down. I also put a stainless steel split washer under the head of the screw to help lock the screw in place. Just in case...
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517 viewsHere are the resistors...beefy! They are 3 watts each. If you use a smaller wattage resistor they will get hot!! These will get warm but not hot. One is 1-ohm and the other 16-ohms. You wire them in series so you get a total of 17-ohms resistance. So you can use any combination of resistors you want, just shoot for 17-ohms. This puts my gas gauge needle right on the first white mark (left side) of the red Reserve section but the needle will go a little past the Full mark when the tank is topped up. Add more resistance to have the needle move down more but I'm guessing that a total of 20-ohms would be the max to use.
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517 viewsBefore, low-beam.
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