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517 viewsHere are the resistors...beefy! They are 3 watts each. If you use a smaller wattage resistor they will get hot!! These will get warm but not hot. One is 1-ohm and the other 16-ohms. You wire them in series so you get a total of 17-ohms resistance. So you can use any combination of resistors you want, just shoot for 17-ohms. This puts my gas gauge needle right on the first white mark (left side) of the red Reserve section but the needle will go a little past the Full mark when the tank is topped up. Add more resistance to have the needle move down more but I'm guessing that a total of 20-ohms would be the max to use.
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517 viewsBefore, low-beam.
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515 viewsUse a split-seam wire loom around the e-brake cable to keep it from rubbing a groove into the insulation.
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514 viewsTo separate the two electrical connectors simply lift the tab (red arrow) and gently pull the male connector (what I'm holding) from the female (top) (yellow arrows).
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513 viewsNew grip installed.
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513 viewsUsing needle-nosed pliers remove the tits from inside the plug backing for the #16 and #11 holes. Don't remove the others as they fill the holes in the seal.
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512 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).
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511 viewsAfter.
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510 views(continued) The resistors came as a two-pack and were $1.25 each ($3.50 total for 4 resistors).
My "resistor pack". I wrapped the wires together so they will be in series...
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510 viewsFeed your pigtail wires in, white with yellow stripe on the left in the #16 hole and the white with orange stripe on the right in the #11 hole. The numbers are on the outside of the black plug.
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509 viewsWhere it ends. Give or take several inches :-)
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509 viewsThe right side fully wrapped with no problem. By the way, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery when working on the Y-section and back (like this part) as the insulation can conduct electricity and there is the starter chillin' out there, with it's +12v constant supply just waiting for some action ;-)
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509 views
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508 viewsThe 3-pin connector apart. Next up is the 2-pin connector. After that the headlight can come completely off the bike. This is done by pushing the assembly up in the same direction as the fork tubes until the bracket comes off the upper pegs. Pull it forward a little to clear the pegs then downward (if a Strada windshield is in the way) and forward to clear the bike.
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507 views
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507 viewsThis is the complete kit. The flat, squarish box to the left is the ballast while the rectangular box above it is the ignitor. The bulb and wiring is to the right.
For removing the headlight see my album "Diavel headlight film install".
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506 views
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506 views
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502 viewsView of the Y-section taken from the left side.
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Night example.502 viewsNight time example of turn signals. Also on YouTube.com at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAUECRUXoQo&list=UUhzs41pIUb_YugBfXOWUwvw&index=3&feature=plcp
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