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412 views...but now it is!
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Before...412 views
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412 viewsStock, non-fog light switch.
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412 viewsHow it looks all wired up.
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411 viewsPut the electrical connectors back together. They only go on one way so it's pretty much idiot-resistant. The 2-pin goes on first. Notice the positioning.
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410 viewsHi-riser is slipped on the fork tube and here is the bar in stock form.
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410 viewsAfter, high-beam.
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410 viewsRotating ballast clockwise to get it in there. The single electrical connector, or plug, goes down the right side of the headlight housing and then towards the high-beam bulb holder.
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409 viewsHow it looks with the plug put all back together.
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409 viewsThe 3-pin connector apart. Next up is the 2-pin connector. After that the headlight can come completely off the bike. This is done by pushing the assembly up in the same direction as the fork tubes until the bracket comes off the upper pegs. Pull it forward a little to clear the pegs then downward (if a Strada windshield is in the way) and forward to clear the bike.
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409 views3-pin connecter goes on next. Notice the positioning.
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408 viewsI used "Plasti Dip" over the joint as it's an electrical insulator and will protect the joint. It's thick and simply paints on.
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407 viewsThe right side fully wrapped with no problem. By the way, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery when working on the Y-section and back (like this part) as the insulation can conduct electricity and there is the starter chillin' out there, with it's +12v constant supply just waiting for some action ;-)
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407 viewsNew light switch plugged in. See the red tab? It's in the 'unlocked' position...
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Applying the LED array to the head light.407 viewsI started from the top (right side of picture) and carefully removed the LED backing tape as I move towards the front of the head light. Just eye-balled the application but kept it more towards the inside of the light (engine side). This allows more light to be spread out onto the head light lens and disperse the light. I put a rubber tube around the wires to protect them from chaffing against the metal. Be sure to clean the lens well! I used rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.
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407 viewsThis shows the plug and orientation of the ballast. That plug is where the power comes in once everything has been installed. Notice the ignitor is outside of the headlight housing.
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406 viewsTa-da!
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405 views
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405 viewsI wasn't able to fully wrap this piece. It was a real pain to get the insulation on top of it. Since it is already insulated from the factory I didn't worry much about cutting up some insulation and wrapping the bottom. Maybe at a later date. Notice that I did put an 18" sheet across the top of the heat exchanger ducts that go over the torsion housing. What a pain in the neck! Trying to wrap this section wasn't worth it, with the tubes, guides, wires, and shifter parts all in the way -- very busy area!
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405 viewsTo reduce scratches from the squeegee, wrap it in a semi-thick cloth. This is mine from a previous film application and is what I used after I noticed small scratches appearing on the film when I first started using the supplied one.
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