 Most viewed - Zoom-zoom |
475 viewsI used a small zip-tie to keep the resistors together while working on them. Not critical to have but makes the pack more sturdy and easier to handle. You can also see that I bent the wires back on themselves, essentially making them thicker. This allowed me to crimp spade connectors to them...
|
|
475 viewsEmpty clutch housing, ready for the new unit.
|
|
474 viewsThe right grip is held on by a ridge on both ends of the throttle so peel the grip off them.
|
|
474 viewsClutch pack removed. See all those teeth marks? Yeah, that's how a clutch basket SHOULDN'T look! Very worn out.
|
|
474 viewsThe springs should be no less than 41mm. Mine were at 36mm!
|
|
474 viewsThis shows the plug and orientation of the ballast. That plug is where the power comes in once everything has been installed. Notice the ignitor is outside of the headlight housing.
|
|
Side view, half and half473 viewsLower half with lightest tint applied, LED and top have no film on them.
|
|
473 viewsAll the bearings are roller bearings and they are held in with the grease. When cleaning the grease and wiping the bearings they will most likely fall out so work over a soft, plush towel to keep them from bouncing away. Pack the bearings and cage surfaces with fresh grease and slip any fallen bearings back in. You should see no gaps between the bearings. Pack more grease in when they're all in and roll them around with your finger to spread the fresh grease around. It will hold them in there.
|
|
473 viewsPermatex 2A gasket silicone is what I smeared on the mating surfaces of the case half instead of using a gasket.
|
|
472 views
|
|
Applying the LED array to the head light.472 viewsI started from the top (right side of picture) and carefully removed the LED backing tape as I move towards the front of the head light. Just eye-balled the application but kept it more towards the inside of the light (engine side). This allows more light to be spread out onto the head light lens and disperse the light. I put a rubber tube around the wires to protect them from chaffing against the metal. Be sure to clean the lens well! I used rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.
|
|
471 viewsLeft side are the 'raw' bits that make up the mounts. On the right is the completed right mount.
|
|
470 viewsRemoving the pillion backrest and grab handles is very easy. There are only three, 6mm bolts. One under the seat on each side (red arrow) and the other one is below the back rest mount, center-line of the seat. Be careful when lowering it due to all the wiring. I would also recommend covering the rear fender to protect both pieces from being scratched.
|
|
469 views
|
|
469 viewsHere's the VR (voltage regulator) information. This is what you need. I got mine for $3.15 at Norvac Electronics, Inc. You can also get it at Fry's. NTE1932, IC voltage regulator, positive 10-volts, 1-amp.
|
|
469 viewsTa-da!
|
|
469 viewsFirst zip-tie installed. I waited on the second one so I could move the ballast a little while working on the electrical cabling. This just helps get the ballast out of the way and keeps it from moving around too much. You can now install the HID bulb and secure it.
|
|
Before...468 views
|
|
468 viewsUse a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the clear lens retaining screw.
|
|
468 viewsInside of forward gear and planetary gear mating teeth.
|
|
| 1529 files on 77 page(s) |
 |
21 | |
|
