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399 viewsIt may not be necessary but I wanted to make sure my ballast wouldn't move around so this is what I did. I cut a notch at the top and bottom of the hourglass brace that the zip-tie would neatly fit in to. This will keep the zip-tie from slipping and thus keep a firm hold on the ballast. A sharp X-acto knife will easily cut through the plastic so operate slowly and carefully.
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398 viewsI placed a friction plate back in to measure the gap. I had to use an Allen wrench: 2.5mm. Not good. Max gap is supposed to be no more than 0.6mm!
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Side view, both lights covered398 viewsTop and bottom lights covered in lightest tint, LED not covered.
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398 viewsDone! I used a piece of wire sleeve tubing (that black ribbed bit) to protect the power wires from rubbing against the zip-tie and hourglass brace. Most likely it's not necessary but while I was in there...just in case....
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397 viewsThe original OEM clutch.
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397 viewsI tucked the headlight connector into the middle left side of the headlight, below the white headlight adjustment mechanism. If you adjusted the headlight vertical adjustment earlier this is when you will want to return it back to its original position, rotating it clockwise.
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396 viewsIn order to remove the upper triple-tree the headlight needs to be removed and then the U-shaped ladder part that the headlight attaches to is then removed. Remove the two nuts at the bottom of the ladder then lift it up. Also, disconnect the headlight connector and put the headlight out of the way.
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396 viewsFirst zip-tie installed. I waited on the second one so I could move the ballast a little while working on the electrical cabling. This just helps get the ballast out of the way and keeps it from moving around too much. You can now install the HID bulb and secure it.
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395 views
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395 views
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Connecting the DRL LED array.395 viewsI used a hand drill with a 2mm drill bit (smallest I had) to carefully drill a pilot hole into the side of the relay box. The pilot hole is 7mm down from the top of the lip of the fuse/relay box. It's between fuses M20 and M27.
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395 viewsConnect the ignitor wires to the bulb. One thing I did to make this wiring install easier is to remove the weather seal that holds the 4 wires. Since everything is contained within the headlight bucket there's no need for the wiring seal. Carefully use a sharp blade, like a crescent X-acto blade, to cut the seal and remove the wiring.
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394 viewsThis picture and the next show that the corner is cut and folded onto itself. It's best to have over-lapping than a gap in the insulation.
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394 viewsBefore, high-beam.
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393 viewsDetail of the top triple tree with stock clip-ons.
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393 viewsWhere I zip-tied the left side of the harness. It comes down near the radiator over-flow container (the pink bottle). Don't use the aluminum object to the left, that's the heat-sink for the coils!
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393 viewsFor safety I wrapped each connector in electrical tape and then wrapped them together as well.
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392 viewsHere's how the clutch basket looked. Those streaks are LOTS of thread locker applied at the factory. It leaked out the back side as well. After removing the eight retaining bolts I had to use a drift and tap a couple of the ears on the basket to gently break it free.
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392 viewsConnect the wires to the power plug. Now all the ignitor and ballast wires are attached so you can push them further into and down inside the headlight bucket. Now you can loop in the other zip-tie to secure the ballast, cutting notches in the hourglass brace like I did if you want. If you removed the high-beam bulb you can now put it back in, along with its wires.
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