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532 viewsOkay, learn from me. The grips come in two internal diameters. The smaller diameter goes on the left while the larger one goes on the right (throttle) side.
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532 viewsInstalled and ready to ride!
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531 viewsI originally tapped the existing mounting holes in the resistors with 4M x .7 threads but I decided to add Nyloc nuts to insure nothing came loose. All fasteners I used are stainless steel.
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531 viewsHere's what the left bracket looks like. Ugly. But it works, keeping it away from plastics and wires, so that's what matters in the end.
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531 viewsConnect the wires to the power plug. Now all the ignitor and ballast wires are attached so you can push them further into and down inside the headlight bucket. Now you can loop in the other zip-tie to secure the ballast, cutting notches in the hourglass brace like I did if you want. If you removed the high-beam bulb you can now put it back in, along with its wires.
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530 viewsNotice that I put a length of split-loom over the cable and wrapped the insulation over it. Again, the split-loom keep the cable from cutting into the insulation.
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530 viewsGrasp the original bulb to gently pull the reflector straight out. I show this angled so the inside end can be seen. Gently push the bulb in just a little bit and then rotate it to remove it. Mine were in there quite snug! The LED unit goes in the same way as the bulb. Put everything back together. Done!
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529 viewsThis picture and the next show that the corner is cut and folded onto itself. It's best to have over-lapping than a gap in the insulation.
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529 viewsIn order to remove the upper triple-tree the headlight needs to be removed and then the U-shaped ladder part that the headlight attaches to is then removed. Remove the two nuts at the bottom of the ladder then lift it up. Also, disconnect the headlight connector and put the headlight out of the way.
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529 viewsHow it looks with the plug put all back together.
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528 viewsInside of forward gear and planetary gear mating teeth.
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Applying the LED array to the head light.527 viewsI started from the top (right side of picture) and carefully removed the LED backing tape as I move towards the front of the head light. Just eye-balled the application but kept it more towards the inside of the light (engine side). This allows more light to be spread out onto the head light lens and disperse the light. I put a rubber tube around the wires to protect them from chaffing against the metal. Be sure to clean the lens well! I used rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.
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Fogs comparison with low beams on527 viewsLeft picture is with the fogs off -- Right picture is with the fogs on.
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526 views
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526 views
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526 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.
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525 viewsView from the driver's seat with the fogs on. Notice the green "fog lights on" indicator to the right of the speedometer and below the red "fasten seat belt" indicator. I just finished adjusting the fog lights. The top of the light you see on the building wall is 14". If I went by the instructions it would've been 13" but I wanted just a little more distance.
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524 viewsRemoving the spacer.
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523 viewsHow it looks all wired up.
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523 viewsTa-da!
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