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456 viewsFor the inner belt that runs the vertical (rear) cylinder I made my own mark on the belt and pulley at about the center spot.
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455 viewsHere the flapper is opened all of the way so all of the heated air goes into the Bus interior. This system is used by all the Types of engines (Type I/II, III, & IV).
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455 viewsThe spade connectors snap in. If they are difficult to get out (at a later date, say, when replacing the bulb) you may want to use a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver to push the spade away from the female contact as shown.
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454 views
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454 viewsDetail of the top triple tree with stock clip-ons.
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454 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.
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454 viewsHere's how the clutch basket looked. Those streaks are LOTS of thread locker applied at the factory. It leaked out the back side as well. After removing the eight retaining bolts I had to use a drift and tap a couple of the ears on the basket to gently break it free.
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454 viewsPush the power supply wires into the original headlight bulb connector.
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453 viewsThe view of the installed ladder and hi-risers. Headlight goes back on and the gauge cluster and I'm ready to ride a little more comfortably.
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453 viewsTop view of LEDs firing.
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453 viewsI placed a friction plate back in to measure the gap. I had to use an Allen wrench: 2.5mm. Not good. Max gap is supposed to be no more than 0.6mm!
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453 viewsMounted and behind my Rizoma vented clutch cover.
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With film applied.453 viewsRunning light on.
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452 viewsCable passed through hole, ready for the gasket.
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452 viewsDetail of the bottom of the unbolted ladder.
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452 viewsSince I wouldn't be using any of my original plates I used one as a lock to hold the clutch drum so I could remove the center retaining bolt.
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451 views
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451 viewsThis is what I saw when on the tanny end when I removed the tail cover. That dumbbell looking gear stack directly in front is what goes on the shaft that is inside the tail cover.
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LED dual-element array (alternating white and amber LEDs).451 viewsCut the other end to the desired length or to simply remove the other wires. Use some heat-shrink at the end to seal it from the elements. I left a little over-hang and then bent the heat-shrink back on itself, then gently clamped with some needle-nose pliers.
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Connecting the DRL LED array.451 viewsI used a hand drill with a 2mm drill bit (smallest I had) to carefully drill a pilot hole into the side of the relay box. The pilot hole is 7mm down from the top of the lip of the fuse/relay box. It's between fuses M20 and M27.
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