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500 viewsHere the flapper is opened all of the way so all of the heated air goes into the Bus interior. This system is used by all the Types of engines (Type I/II, III, & IV).
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500 views...and now it's in the 'locked' position. I noticed many of the electrical connectors had some sort of lock on them. If you see a red tab/button then that's a connector lock.
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500 viewsRight side ground...had to use a 10mm box wrench (spanner).
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500 viewsA quick video tour of the installed harness. For easier viewing please go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8ePhGSbxso
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500 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).
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499 viewsThis is what I saw when on the tanny end when I removed the tail cover. That dumbbell looking gear stack directly in front is what goes on the shaft that is inside the tail cover.
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Turn signal switch499 viewsAll apart. Use white lithium on the left part of the switch, where the ball bearing rubs against the left wall. Use dielectric grease everywhere else.
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499 viewsThe clutch stack. See how the left edge of the friction plate teeth are worn and hammered.
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498 viewsFlap fully open, allowing some of the heated air to divert into the center of the Bus for the rear passengers.
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497 views
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497 viewsThe complete assembly and all lubed up.
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497 viewsJust a picture of the stock '06 clip-ons and the bottom side of the upper triple tree.
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497 viewsPivot the outside of the clear lens a little and then gently pull the lens away from the housing.
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497 viewsSame thing for forward gear.
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496 views
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496 viewsAnd with mia ragazza herself.
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495 views
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495 viewsI made a pigtail bridge, effectively just lengthening the distance between the original electrical plugs. This allows me to put the resistor into the circuit, in parallel. This tricks the ECU into thinking it's running incandescent bulbs & thus keeps it from rapidly flashing (bulb-out warning). I was successful on the right side with using blue splice/snap-lock connectors. The left side it wasn't working so I ended up soldering the resistor leads directly to the bridging wires. Perfect. In hind-sight I should've done this to the right side...oh well, some other day. Coated with liquid electrical tape & then wrapped in real tape.
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494 views
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...after.494 viewsThe bottom of the switch is at 36".
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