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457 views
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Before...457 views
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456 viewsFeed the harness through the rubber cup from the front side.
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456 viewsRight side, back view.
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456 viewsThe left side mounted. The wiring of the pigtail and such was all pushed forward, thus being outside of the seat pan just like the resistor. The pigtail length was 15cm and that gave plenty of slack to add the resistor leads to.
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455 views
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455 viewsHere's the high/low beam switch all buttoned up.
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455 viewsThe core is folded under the wire and the connector firmly crimped, ready for use.
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All done!455 viewsLights on. I took this picture with the flash to dim the LED array as they are very bright.
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455 viewsFacing into the sun, the LEDs can still be seen although they aren't as bright as dedicated OEM units found on other vehicles.
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455 viewsHeight difference between the new stainless steel spring on the left and the tired steel OEM spring on the right.
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Reference shot455 viewsForward mounted gear box. On left side of trailer looking to the right side. Notice that I added a steel roll pin to the front of the gear box, just in case I need to crank from the front.
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454 viewsFor the particular bulbs that came in this kit (an early version), I had to cut the wires and then feed them through the gasket. I used butt connectors and high-quality crimpers (expensive) to secure the wires.
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453 views'62 Maserati 3500 GTI
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453 viewsLeft heat exchanger accordion duct, looking forward. For some reason, the diameter was more than 16" so the wrap didn't fully cover it.
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453 viewsAnother view of the completed assembly. Notice that the bulb is on the inside of the rubber boot and that the bulb is still in the container. You don't want to expose the bulb until you absolutely have to, it must stay clean! You can use rubbing alcohol to wipe the bulb down if it gets dirty or you touch it -- oil from your skin is bad for the bulb!
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