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5After.jpg
492 viewsAfter, low-beam.
IMAG1239.jpg
Front view, both lights covered491 viewsTop and bottom tinted, LED running light not tinted.
4_Before.jpg
491 viewsBefore, high-beam.
grips_slapper_003.jpg
489 views
IMAG1243.jpg
489 viewsTo reduce scratches from the squeegee, wrap it in a semi-thick cloth. This is mine from a previous film application and is what I used after I noticed small scratches appearing on the film when I first started using the supplied one.
IMAG1596.jpg
488 viewsThis is how it should look when done. The hard part of this install has been completed!
IMAG1593.jpg
487 viewsRotating ballast clockwise to get it in there. The single electrical connector, or plug, goes down the right side of the headlight housing and then towards the high-beam bulb holder.
grips_slapper_013.jpg
486 viewsSlide/peel the stock grip off.
IMAG1228-a.jpg
486 viewsTwo terminal connector comes apart just like the three terminal connector.
grips_slapper_010.jpg
485 viewsTo remove, simply loosen the bolt a few turns and pull the whole assembly out.
IMAG1246.jpg
484 viewsPut the electrical connectors back together. They only go on one way so it's pretty much idiot-resistant. The 2-pin goes on first. Notice the positioning.
IMAG1499.jpg
483 viewsThe JST electrical connectors/terminals are tiny, delicate, and not easy to get inserted into the plugs. The crimpers on the right are just for these pins and were just over $40, which is CHEAP because the good ones go for over $400.
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480 viewsHi-riser is slipped on the fork tube and here is the bar in stock form.
IMAG0850.jpg
479 viewsOEM 12T on the left, EVR 48T on the right.
3After.jpg
479 viewsAfter, low-beam.
IMAG1606.jpg
479 viewsI tucked the headlight connector into the middle left side of the headlight, below the white headlight adjustment mechanism. If you adjusted the headlight vertical adjustment earlier this is when you will want to return it back to its original position, rotating it clockwise.
IMAG1244.jpg
478 viewsThe improved squeegee in action, applying the bottom tint first.
5_Before.jpg
477 viewsBefore, low-beam.
IMAG1597.jpg
477 viewsIt may not be necessary but I wanted to make sure my ballast wouldn't move around so this is what I did. I cut a notch at the top and bottom of the hourglass brace that the zip-tie would neatly fit in to. This will keep the zip-tie from slipping and thus keep a firm hold on the ballast. A sharp X-acto knife will easily cut through the plastic so operate slowly and carefully.
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476 viewsLine up the pulley markings with those on the engine case. I used a white grease pencil (china marker) to mark the points on both the case and pulleys for faster visual confirmation. You can see here I drew a line all of the way across the horizontal belt and center pulley as a precaution. I marked the replacement (new) horizontal belt the same way as the vertical belt explained here.
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