 Most viewed - Ducati |
394 viewsI placed a friction plate back in to measure the gap. I had to use an Allen wrench: 2.5mm. Not good. Max gap is supposed to be no more than 0.6mm!
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394 viewsTo reduce scratches from the squeegee, wrap it in a semi-thick cloth. This is mine from a previous film application and is what I used after I noticed small scratches appearing on the film when I first started using the supplied one.
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393 views
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393 viewsClutch pack removed. See all those teeth marks? Yeah, that's how a clutch basket SHOULDN'T look! Very worn out.
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392 viewsThe original OEM clutch.
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392 viewsThis shows the plug and orientation of the ballast. That plug is where the power comes in once everything has been installed. Notice the ignitor is outside of the headlight housing.
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391 viewsRotating ballast clockwise to get it in there. The single electrical connector, or plug, goes down the right side of the headlight housing and then towards the high-beam bulb holder.
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389 viewsAfter, high-beam.
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389 viewsI didn't get pictures of all the steps after this one because it's a bit fiddly. This shows roughly how you want to start the process of rotating the ballast anti-clockwise and move it a little left of center under that hourglass brace (center of headlight bucket). The electrical cables coming from the ballast will be pointing to the right side of the headlight bucket and the power plug will be up and next to the ignitor when done.
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388 viewsUpper triple tree removed. Use a 6mm Allen wrench to loosen all clamping bolts. Alternately tap the bottom of the clip-ons to walk the triple tree and clip-ons up. I used a block of wood positioned under the clip-on and tapped it with a rubber mallet -- just in case I missed the wood!
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387 viewsIn order to remove the upper triple-tree the headlight needs to be removed and then the U-shaped ladder part that the headlight attaches to is then removed. Remove the two nuts at the bottom of the ladder then lift it up. Also, disconnect the headlight connector and put the headlight out of the way.
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387 viewsHere's how the clutch basket looked. Those streaks are LOTS of thread locker applied at the factory. It leaked out the back side as well. After removing the eight retaining bolts I had to use a drift and tap a couple of the ears on the basket to gently break it free.
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Side view, both lights covered387 viewsTop and bottom lights covered in lightest tint, LED not covered.
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386 viewsThis is the outer-most friction plate and driven plate. The average thickness of the friction plates was ~2.8mm. They should be replaced if they are less than 3.2mm!
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386 viewsAfter, low-beam.
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386 viewsBefore, low-beam.
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383 viewsConnect the ignitor wires to the bulb. One thing I did to make this wiring install easier is to remove the weather seal that holds the 4 wires. Since everything is contained within the headlight bucket there's no need for the wiring seal. Carefully use a sharp blade, like a crescent X-acto blade, to cut the seal and remove the wiring.
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382 viewsDetail of the top triple tree with stock clip-ons.
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382 viewsSince I wouldn't be using any of my original plates I used one as a lock to hold the clutch drum so I could remove the center retaining bolt.
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382 viewsInstalled and ready to ride!
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