 Most viewed - Ducati |
511 viewsUse a drift to tap out the push rod.
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511 viewsHere's how the clutch basket looked. Those streaks are LOTS of thread locker applied at the factory. It leaked out the back side as well. After removing the eight retaining bolts I had to use a drift and tap a couple of the ears on the basket to gently break it free.
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509 views"Tool tray" needs to be removed for tucking the wires in on the right side. There are six of the 4mm fasteners holding it down.
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509 viewsThe spade connectors snap in. If they are difficult to get out (at a later date, say, when replacing the bulb) you may want to use a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver to push the spade away from the female contact as shown.
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508 viewsI placed a friction plate back in to measure the gap. I had to use an Allen wrench: 2.5mm. Not good. Max gap is supposed to be no more than 0.6mm!
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507 viewsFor the inner belt that runs the vertical (rear) cylinder I made my own mark on the belt and pulley at about the center spot.
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506 viewsLower bolt. Use a 10mm Allen wrench to remove the bolts. Though they already have molyb (grease B using Ducati nomenclature) smeared on them I (later) added a little bit more.
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506 viewsMounted and behind my Rizoma vented clutch cover.
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With film applied.506 viewsHeadlight and running light off.
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With film applied.503 viewsLow beam (regular OEM bulb) and running light.
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502 viewsWhile I was "in there" I decided to change out the O-rings at the other end of the push rod.
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501 viewsThe "OUT" port is on the right side of the tank and this is where the fuel is outputted to the fuel injectors. The "IN" port is where the fuel is pushed back into the tank/pump. At the end of the IN port, inside the tank, is the pressure regulator.
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501 viewsUse a Phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining screw at the bottom of the headlamp. No need to completely remove the screw, just until it becomes loose & wobbly.
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With film applied.501 viewsRunning light on.
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501 viewsThe right side mounted. Easy. It hides under the seat base and is away from the seat edge, thus touching nothing.
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500 viewsI used a 5/8" socket to support the bearing so I could drive out the push rod.
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500 viewsThe red circled part shows why the lens needs to be angled out when removing it. That hook helps hold the lens in to the housing. The end opposite the hook is where the screw goes.
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499 viewsThe PCIII protected inside some bubble-wrap and under the seat.
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499 viewsWith the horizontal (front) cylinder belt removed I lined up my replacement belt for the vertical cylinder and marked it.
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499 viewsThis is the outer-most friction plate and driven plate. The average thickness of the friction plates was ~2.8mm. They should be replaced if they are less than 3.2mm!
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