 Most viewed - Ducati |
With film applied.353 viewsLow beam (regular OEM bulb) and running light.
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353 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).
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353 viewsThe right side mounted. Easy. It hides under the seat base and is away from the seat edge, thus touching nothing.
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353 viewsThe spade connectors snap in. If they are difficult to get out (at a later date, say, when replacing the bulb) you may want to use a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver to push the spade away from the female contact as shown.
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352 viewsMounted and behind my Rizoma vented clutch cover.
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352 viewsSize comparison of the incandescent (left) bulb vs. the LED unit (right). Though the LED unit is taller it will still fit inside the signal housing with room to spare.
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...after.351 views
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351 viewsPivot the outside of the clear lens a little and then gently pull the lens away from the housing.
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351 viewsRemoving the pillion backrest and grab handles is very easy. There are only three, 6mm bolts. One under the seat on each side (red arrow) and the other one is below the back rest mount, center-line of the seat. Be careful when lowering it due to all the wiring. I would also recommend covering the rear fender to protect both pieces from being scratched.
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350 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.
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With film applied.349 viewsRunning light on.
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349 viewsUse a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the clear lens retaining screw.
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349 viewsRemoving the one-way retaining washer is a pain in the butt. Chances are very good that you could end up breaking the pin...not that it's a big deal if that happens, honestly. I did this on the left side to remove the turn signal electrical connector away from the rest of the harness, then pushed the retainer back on.
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349 viewsI made a pigtail bridge, effectively just lengthening the distance between the original electrical plugs. This allows me to put the resistor into the circuit, in parallel. This tricks the ECU into thinking it's running incandescent bulbs & thus keeps it from rapidly flashing (bulb-out warning). I was successful on the right side with using blue splice/snap-lock connectors. The left side it wasn't working so I ended up soldering the resistor leads directly to the bridging wires. Perfect. In hind-sight I should've done this to the right side...oh well, some other day. Coated with liquid electrical tape & then wrapped in real tape.
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349 viewsThe left side mounted. The wiring of the pigtail and such was all pushed forward, thus being outside of the seat pan just like the resistor. The pigtail length was 15cm and that gave plenty of slack to add the resistor leads to.
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348 viewsI'm holding the hose that I'm going to merge and thus remove. The one near the bottom of the picture with the brass hose clamp is the hose that will remain and thus serve as the bleed and drainage line.
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348 viewsThe JST electrical connectors/terminals are tiny, delicate, and not easy to get inserted into the plugs. The crimpers on the right are just for these pins and were just over $40, which is CHEAP because the good ones go for over $400.
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347 viewsReference picture.
22GA wire. How the terminals look and are positioned for insertion (crimps up) into the plastic housing.
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346 viewsHere's the hoses merged together. Cut the bleed hose about 6" down and insert the horizontal part of the tee. Connect the 8" hose. Done!
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346 viewsHi-risers and controls installed, ready to put the bike back together.
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