 Most viewed - Ducati |
369 viewsUse a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the clear lens retaining screw.
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369 viewsThe red circled part shows why the lens needs to be angled out when removing it. That hook helps hold the lens in to the housing. The end opposite the hook is where the screw goes.
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369 viewsRemoving the pillion backrest and grab handles is very easy. There are only three, 6mm bolts. One under the seat on each side (red arrow) and the other one is below the back rest mount, center-line of the seat. Be careful when lowering it due to all the wiring. I would also recommend covering the rear fender to protect both pieces from being scratched.
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369 viewsRemoving the one-way retaining washer is a pain in the butt. Chances are very good that you could end up breaking the pin...not that it's a big deal if that happens, honestly. I did this on the left side to remove the turn signal electrical connector away from the rest of the harness, then pushed the retainer back on.
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368 views
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With film applied.368 viewsRunning light on.
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367 viewsThe "OUT" port is on the right side of the tank and this is where the fuel is outputted to the fuel injectors. The "IN" port is where the fuel is pushed back into the tank/pump. At the end of the IN port, inside the tank, is the pressure regulator.
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367 viewsLower bolt. Use a 10mm Allen wrench to remove the bolts. Though they already have molyb (grease B using Ducati nomenclature) smeared on them I (later) added a little bit more.
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367 viewsAnother view of the same worn teeth.
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367 viewsSize comparison of the incandescent (left) bulb vs. the LED unit (right). Though the LED unit is taller it will still fit inside the signal housing with room to spare.
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367 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).
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366 viewsMounted and behind my Rizoma vented clutch cover.
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365 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.
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365 viewsI made a pigtail bridge, effectively just lengthening the distance between the original electrical plugs. This allows me to put the resistor into the circuit, in parallel. This tricks the ECU into thinking it's running incandescent bulbs & thus keeps it from rapidly flashing (bulb-out warning). I was successful on the right side with using blue splice/snap-lock connectors. The left side it wasn't working so I ended up soldering the resistor leads directly to the bridging wires. Perfect. In hind-sight I should've done this to the right side...oh well, some other day. Coated with liquid electrical tape & then wrapped in real tape.
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364 viewsThe headlamp exposed. Pretty darn simple in there.
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364 viewsWhile I was "in there" I decided to change out the O-rings at the other end of the push rod.
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363 viewsUse a Phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining screw at the bottom of the headlamp. No need to completely remove the screw, just until it becomes loose & wobbly.
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363 viewsI originally tapped the existing mounting holes in the resistors with 4M x .7 threads but I decided to add Nyloc nuts to insure nothing came loose. All fasteners I used are stainless steel.
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...after.362 views
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362 viewsHere's what the left bracket looks like. Ugly. But it works, keeping it away from plastics and wires, so that's what matters in the end.
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