 Most viewed - Ducati |
362 viewsThe pigtail length I used was 35mm and the red line shows how it's laid inside the seat pan with the resistor wires coming in an OEM hole (arrow) and spliced into it. This is all hidden by the "tool tray". I could've shortened it by a couple centimeters but it works as is.
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359 viewsI'm holding the hose that I'm going to merge and thus remove. The one near the bottom of the picture with the brass hose clamp is the hose that will remain and thus serve as the bleed and drainage line.
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359 viewsHere's the hoses merged together. Cut the bleed hose about 6" down and insert the horizontal part of the tee. Connect the 8" hose. Done!
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359 viewsLeft side. The front wheel stand and center body cradle can both be removed, as well as the gray twist-tie holding the bike down.
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Detail 1358 viewsOEM Sachs on top (black spring) and Ohlins racing on the bottom (yellow spring).
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357 views
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357 viewsHi-risers and controls installed, ready to put the bike back together.
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357 viewsThe PCIII protected inside some bubble-wrap and under the seat.
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355 viewsThe top bar has the stock groove in it and the bottom one shows the extra material I had to remove, about 3/4 of the width of the original groove. Both bars required this modification. This allows the bar to be positioned "down" more so the reservoir clamps/brackets can fit on the bars. I used a hack saw to make the initial removal of material then used a rat-tail (round) file to further remove material and neaten the curves. Remember to remove just a little instead of too much! These are aluminum and it's very easy to work with.
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353 viewsThese are the inner-most plates. Only slightly less wear than the fronts.
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352 viewsOther side of the bar showing the locating pin and hole.
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351 viewsThis is the drainage hose that I'm removing. I'm just going to tee it into the existing bleed hose, that's all.
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350 viewsWhat you need: A barbed "T"-fitting that's 1/4" at each end. I used an 8" piece of fuel line instead of cutting the original drainage hose.
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349 views...to mate with the notch in the one clutch spring post. I seriously don't think it matters but I tried to follow the workshop manual instructions as closely as I could, just in case.
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348 views
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348 viewsComparison of the incandescent bulb (left) and the LED replacement (right).
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348 viewsThe turning tool screws in snugly and easily lets you rotate then engine to get the pulleys to TDC (Top Dead Center).
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348 viewsI used the hole in the pressure plate...
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Before...347 viewsThe bottom of the switch housing is at 34".
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346 viewsThe parking lamp simply pulls straight out. It's a friction-fit retention assembly.
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