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VR_move_019.jpg
2171 views
MOSFET_bracket_001.jpg
Added: Everything you need to know to mount a MOSFET R/R!2082 viewsHere's the bracket I made from some scrap steel I had. It's 3/16" (5mm) thick. If you use a different thickness just make sure the piece used is thick enough to hold 4 threads at a MINIMUM! You want plenty of fastener thread engagement for the M6x1.00mm tap as that is where one side of the MOSFET R/R will be mounted. The chamfered hole is made with a 17/64" bit and then widened via chamfering. NOTE: Prior to this I had my MOSFET R/R mounted in the stock location with just one bolt and had NO ISSUES with it coming loose/moving.
MOSFET_bracket_012.jpg
1935 viewsSpace is now available. I'll be using this to house my Dynojet PowerCommander III.
MOSFET_bracket_002.jpg
1821 viewsThe MOSFET R/R, painted bracket, and stainless-steel fasteners. Blue Loc-tite is necessary on all three fasteners. The counter-sink bolt uses a 4mm Allen while the two cap bolts use a 5mm Allen wrench.
MOSFET_bracket_010.jpg
Mounted and wired!1803 viewsThis is how it looks when done.
MOSFET_bracket_004.jpg
1716 viewsNext, loosely put in the left bolt. This will help keep the left R/R hole lined up.
MOSFET_bracket_003.jpg
1711 viewsPosition the bracket with the right bolt, having the hole centered on it. Tighten the counter-sunk bolt (left side) into the bracket and seat pan's captured nut. Remove the bolt from the right side.
MOSFET_bracket_006.jpg
1658 viewsNow insert the right bolt in the R/R and tighten into the seat pan's captured nut. Remove the left bolt, apply Loc-tite (just like the other two fasteners) and tighten it to the bracket. Very snug but not so tight that you strip out the threads in the metal!
sprocket_sliders_022.jpg
1282 viewsIt's okay, I put her down to show how the sliders work. Unfortunately, the handle bar ends are gonna get bruised so maybe handle bar sliders would be a good idea for those who don't keep the stock mirrors.
roof_helmet_016.jpg
Modeling the helmet1227 viewsI hate it when people review a helmet but they don't show it being worn. So here it is, how it actually looks on a dressed motorcyclist. Please note that I'm not a professional model and my sweetie isn't a professional photographer so this is as good as it gets.
gauge_lowering_mounts_012.jpg
1197 viewsThe smaller screw in place and with thread locker applied.
gauge_lowering_mounts_013.jpg
1182 viewsLowering brackets mounted to the bike.
roof_helmet_017.jpg
1176 viewsMan I love the look of this helmet! Wind noise is greatly reduced compared to my noisy HJC. The helmet doesn't feel like it's pressing around the ears so I can hear my bike better. One thing that was noticeable was the air entering the face area. There are vents in the chin bar that are always open so this helmet will be nice in warmer weather...not so nice in cold weather unless I wear a face mask. Wearing my sunglasses was easy in my HJC but they don't fit quite as straight in the ROOF.
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1176 viewsThe starter relay removed. You will need to disconnect the cables first in order to remove it.
roof_helmet_019.jpg
1174 viewsChin bar back, visor down. I noticed that the visor has a slight tint. The visor is NOT a quick-release type so those who do track days or carry a second visor (one for day, one for night) won't want this helmet. This is a road going helmet; if I decide to do track days I will have a helmet for that (likely Bell or Arai).
gauge_lowering_mounts_015.jpg
1166 viewsGauges mounted to the lowering brackets.
gauge_lowering_mounts_021.jpg
1166 views
gauge_lowering_mounts_014.jpg
1160 views
20.jpg
1158 viewsThis shows the end product. The brown line is the new Motolectric ground cable that pretty much follows the OEM path. The red line is the new Motolectric power cable for the starter circuit. I routed the new Motolectric cable along the OEM path along the upper frame.
05.jpg
1152 viewsThe brown line is the OEM ground cable; it's connected to the negative terminal on the battery.
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