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Oberon_011.jpg
713 viewsInstalled, bled, and ready for use!
duc_015.jpg
709 viewsMy two favorite toys. The engine is out of my baby in prep for the 2010 Type Three Invasion in Missouri.
Oberon_010.jpg
707 viewsUse an 8mm open-ended wrench to crack open the bleeder nipple when bleeding the clutch slave. I used clear tubing, bungeed to the kick-stand, and let it drain into a glass container. I bled my system until fresh fluid appeared. Remember to keep an eye on the reservoir! Oh yeah, you no longer need the plastic wrap cover. When done, make sure the reservoir is about 3/4 full, then insert the rubber boot and secure the cap.
sprocket_sliders_009.jpg
704 viewsLeft side does not fit in axle tube as the tube is a little smaller. It's small enough that it's really not noticeable to the unknowing eye. I know it doesn't fit exactly so, of course, I notice it.
gauge_lowering_mounts_002.jpg
704 views
roof_helmet_006.jpg
Left side701 views
sprocket_sliders_010a.jpg
700 viewsRight side. Lookin' good!
Oberon_002.jpg
700 viewsPut a sheet of plastic wrap, like Saran-wrap, over the rubber plug...
hypermotard_oil_line_005.jpg
700 viewsAttach the Hypermotard line loosely to the engine. Remove the breather bracket from the front left side of the engine (5mm Allen wrench) and then remove the breather line from the bracket. Position the bracket on the existing oil line and insert the new line as shown.
sprocket_sliders_011.jpg
699 viewsUhg, look at the left front axle slider...stickin' out like a wart :-(
gauge_lowering_mounts_027.jpg
692 views
Oberon_012.jpg
691 viewsThe nice thing with the titanium "colored" Oberon is that its coloration is close to that of the stock unit and thus doesn't stand out.
sprocket_sliders_016.jpg
690 views
rizoma_cover_008.jpg
686 viewsClose-up. The body is metal, the clear cover is a thin plastic material (thin and flexible) and those four forward slots you see are openings.

The sound of the clutch is now quite audible! The stock clutch cover does a good job at keeping the clutch noise down. If you don't like the dry clutch "music" then keep the stock clutch cover on the bike.
IMG_1315.jpg
Tail chopped685 views
duc_018.jpg
683 viewsSafe and sound in her new home.
Oberon_008.jpg
683 viewsOnce the clutch slave is bolted down (10 ft-lbs) pre-fill with DOT-4 brake fluid. I used a syringe and found 6cc to be enough to reach the bottom of the threads. Next, remove the banjo fitting from the stock unit and put it on the new one, torquing it down to 23 ft-lbs.
IMG_1312.jpg
Monoposto swingarm681 views2006 SportClassic 1000 single-seater
hypermotard_oil_line_003.jpg
681 viewsThis is the end of the oil line that is connected to the output on the engine. Notice that goofy bend? That's what's needed for the line to clear the engine. The only tools needed are two 19mm open-ended wrenches, flat-bladed screwdriver, and a 5mm Allen wrench. Use one wrench to hold the connector nut and the other to remove/replace the oil line coupling nut.
hypermotard_oil_line_004.jpg
679 viewsRags in place to catch oil drippings and the Hypermotard line in position with the goofy bend end resting on the exhaust. Remove the top connection first. This way when you remove the bottom connection you can quickly move the stock line out of the way.
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