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04.jpg
559 viewsClose-up of the OEM cable (red line) as it wraps around the front of the clutch and then to the starter post on the starter.
03.jpg
557 viewsThis is the starter relay with the OEM cables.
02.jpg
556 viewsThe OEM setup. The red line is the stock power cable that comes from the battery to the relay, down the right side of the engine, and under the engine to the starter.
rizoma_cover_005.jpg
555 viewsThere are spacers in the gasket and they may come out with the bolt. No big deal, simply pull the spacer off the bolt and put it back into the gasket.
roof_helmet_004.jpg
555 views
027.JPG
Before (stock clip-ons)...551 views
grips_slapper_001.jpg
Skully grips by Driven540 viewsBefore. Stock grips.
051.JPG
...after (hi-rise clip-ons).534 views
rizoma_cover_004.jpg
533 viewsThe four bolts are removed and the cover is on the ground (it's resting on a foam Frisbee). Notice that the bolts are different lengths so make sure you put them back in the same holes. You can also see the clutch dust in the cover and on the exhaust pipe.
roof_helmet_003.jpg
530 viewsChin bar in back position.
hypermotard_oil_line_007.jpg
528 viewsHere's both oil lines in the bracket.
hypermotard_oil_line_009.jpg
525 viewsBreather line re-installed and bracket re-mounted with both oil lines now inside. Now connect the line to the top of the oil cooler and tighten the bottom connection. The connections are snugged to 24 ft-lbs -- that's not very tight so go easy! Again, use both 19mm wrenches to tighten things. Also, smear engine oil on the O-rings before slipping them into the connector. Make sure the insertion is straight and smooth as you do NOT want to tear or pinch them!
grips_slapper_025.jpg
517 viewsI used a scrap piece of the 3M film to make a surround for the body work around ignition cylinder.
rizoma_cover_006.jpg
516 viewsPut some blue Loctite on the bolt threads and snug the new cover back on. No need to be a gorilla and wrench down! The blue Loctite will insure the bolts don't back out. Here it is, installed.
hypermotard_oil_line_008.jpg
511 viewsSlide the bracket back down (shown here where it comes from), pop the breather back in the loop, then bolt the bracket back onto the engine.
IMAG1574.jpg
505 viewsRemove the headlight and place on a thick towel. The low-beam is at the top of the headlight, which is the top of this picture. This shows the back removed and the bulb area exposed -- there are 7 screws that hold the back on. The greyish-silver bolt at the 11 o'clock position on the outside edge is the headlight vertical adjustment. To get more operating space inside the housing I rotated mine anti-clockwise 6 turns. Make sure you mark the bolt with a spot on the housing so you know where to return it when everything is all installed.
IMAG1577.jpg
504 viewsThe bulb connector pulls straight off. Notice that it is one unit. The high-beam bulb has one connector on the bulb and a separate one on the bulb holder. The high-beam bulb is also smaller. Thus it's easy to determine which bulb is which. However, to give yourself some additional maneuvering room, you may want to disconnect the high-beam connectors and remove the high-beam bulb as well.
rizoma_cover_007.jpg
500 viewsOther angle.
IMAG1591.jpg
500 viewsThis is how you begin to stuff the electronics into the headlight bucket. Follow along...
grips_slapper_024.jpg
493 views
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