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371 viewsAll the bearings are roller bearings and they are held in with the grease. When cleaning the grease and wiping the bearings they will most likely fall out so work over a soft, plush towel to keep them from bouncing away. Pack the bearings and cage surfaces with fresh grease and slip any fallen bearings back in. You should see no gaps between the bearings. Pack more grease in when they're all in and roll them around with your finger to spread the fresh grease around. It will hold them in there.Oct 11, 2014
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372 viewsThe pin is missing. Looks melted...??? Without this pin set in the case halves the planetary ring rotates and doesn't allow the forward gear to rotate properly. Oct 11, 2014
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355 viewsRearward gear with original grease. The "B" means back lift box.Oct 11, 2014
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370 viewsInside of rearward gear and planetary gear mating teeth.Oct 11, 2014
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369 viewsInside of forward gear and planetary gear mating teeth.Oct 11, 2014
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368 viewsLeft to right: Rear of gear box with rearward ring, laying on table is planetary ring, behind that is the forward ring, and behind that is a thin plastic washer.Oct 11, 2014
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354 viewsCloser-up. Exploded view. Notice pin is short...it came to us broken.Oct 11, 2014
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353 viewsTaken apart with the rear case fully removed.Oct 11, 2014
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380 viewsInstalled and ready to ride!Oct 03, 2014
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375 viewsDone! I used a piece of wire sleeve tubing (that black ribbed bit) to protect the power wires from rubbing against the zip-tie and hourglass brace. Most likely it's not necessary but while I was in there...just in case....Oct 03, 2014
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376 viewsI tucked the headlight connector into the middle left side of the headlight, below the white headlight adjustment mechanism. If you adjusted the headlight vertical adjustment earlier this is when you will want to return it back to its original position, rotating it clockwise.Oct 03, 2014
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363 viewsFor safety I wrapped each connector in electrical tape and then wrapped them together as well.Oct 03, 2014
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364 viewsPush the power supply wires into the original headlight bulb connector.Oct 03, 2014
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361 viewsTo make it a little easier getting both of the HID wires into the small space I put a single loop in the wire, as shown. Then stuff it in there with the red wire.Oct 03, 2014
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371 viewsThe red wire for the HID bulb is pushed into the top of the headlight bucket. The blue wire that I'm holding will be next.Oct 03, 2014
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372 viewsConnect the wires to the power plug. Now all the ignitor and ballast wires are attached so you can push them further into and down inside the headlight bucket. Now you can loop in the other zip-tie to secure the ballast, cutting notches in the hourglass brace like I did if you want. If you removed the high-beam bulb you can now put it back in, along with its wires.Oct 03, 2014
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380 viewsConnect the ignitor wires to the bulb. One thing I did to make this wiring install easier is to remove the weather seal that holds the 4 wires. Since everything is contained within the headlight bucket there's no need for the wiring seal. Carefully use a sharp blade, like a crescent X-acto blade, to cut the seal and remove the wiring.Oct 03, 2014
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368 viewsFirst zip-tie installed. I waited on the second one so I could move the ballast a little while working on the electrical cabling. This just helps get the ballast out of the way and keeps it from moving around too much. You can now install the HID bulb and secure it.Oct 03, 2014
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374 viewsIt may not be necessary but I wanted to make sure my ballast wouldn't move around so this is what I did. I cut a notch at the top and bottom of the hourglass brace that the zip-tie would neatly fit in to. This will keep the zip-tie from slipping and thus keep a firm hold on the ballast. A sharp X-acto knife will easily cut through the plastic so operate slowly and carefully.Oct 03, 2014
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379 viewsThis is how it should look when done. The hard part of this install has been completed!Oct 03, 2014
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