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380 viewsThe clutch stack. See how the left edge of the friction plate teeth are worn and hammered.Aug 05, 2013
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346 viewsThese are the inner-most plates. Only slightly less wear than the fronts.Aug 05, 2013
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386 viewsThis is the outer-most friction plate and driven plate. The average thickness of the friction plates was ~2.8mm. They should be replaced if they are less than 3.2mm!Aug 05, 2013
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393 viewsI placed a friction plate back in to measure the gap. I had to use an Allen wrench: 2.5mm. Not good. Max gap is supposed to be no more than 0.6mm!Aug 05, 2013
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393 viewsClutch pack removed. See all those teeth marks? Yeah, that's how a clutch basket SHOULDN'T look! Very worn out.Aug 05, 2013
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378 viewsUnscrew the bolts and remove the spring caps and springs. The pressure plate then pulls straight out and the push rod comes with it.Aug 05, 2013
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391 viewsThe original OEM clutch.Aug 05, 2013
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369 viewsAt the top pulley you mark the replacement belt perfectly with the mark on the old belt. You can now remove the vertical belt and quickly replace it with the new belt, followed by the horizontal belt. Adjust the belt tension and then go ride!Jul 28, 2013
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362 viewsBecause the teeth line up on the center pulley you can place the replacement belt right next to the old belt, lining up the belts tooth to tooth. No need for counting!Jul 28, 2013
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358 viewsWith the horizontal (front) cylinder belt removed I lined up my replacement belt for the vertical cylinder and marked it.Jul 28, 2013
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366 viewsFor the inner belt that runs the vertical (rear) cylinder I made my own mark on the belt and pulley at about the center spot.Jul 28, 2013
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367 viewsLine up the pulley markings with those on the engine case. I used a white grease pencil (china marker) to mark the points on both the case and pulleys for faster visual confirmation. You can see here I drew a line all of the way across the horizontal belt and center pulley as a precaution. I marked the replacement (new) horizontal belt the same way as the vertical belt explained here.Jul 28, 2013
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332 viewsThe turning tool screws in snugly and easily lets you rotate then engine to get the pulleys to TDC (Top Dead Center).Jul 28, 2013
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328 viewsRemove the center cover on the left side to expose the end of the crank. This is what you'll see.Jul 28, 2013
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Done!368 viewsDec 27, 2012
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350 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.Dec 27, 2012
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325 viewsThere's a indentation in the seat pan that my tape measure consistently fit nicely in.Dec 27, 2012
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353 viewsLower bolt. Use a 10mm Allen wrench to remove the bolts. Though they already have molyb (grease B using Ducati nomenclature) smeared on them I (later) added a little bit more.Dec 27, 2012
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366 viewsI used my engine hoist to lift my bike by the frame. I'm so glad I have this! This was necessary to get the full extension sag measurement as well as lifting the bike to take pressure off the lower bolt so it could be removed.Dec 27, 2012
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Detail 3325 viewsThe Ohlins shock (left) has an adjustable lower mount as seen by the blue locking nut and threads.Dec 27, 2012
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