 Most viewed |
Back upper right side523 viewsView of various adjusting straps, zippers.
|
|
521 viewsRemoving the speedo sender from the damaged tail cover.
|
|
521 viewsMounting points.
|
|
521 viewsFinal adjustments before our ride.
|
|
520 viewsNotice e-brake cable is above engine bar. Remember this when installing engine.
|
|
520 views...and he's out!
|
|
520 viewsWhat I did was take a short piece of wire and solder it to the pin on the VR and then shrink-wrapped it to keep it insulated. I then crimped a spade connector at the end of the wire. I have a quality (a.k.a. expensive) wire crimper so I know my crimps are good and will last. The right pin (red wire) of the VR connects to the right spade/tab on the fuel gauge. The left pin (black wire) is what gets the +12 volts. Note the spade connetors are being used -- the red wire has a female spade connector and connects to the fuel gauge while the black wire has a male spade connector and is connected to the +12 volt black wire from the gauge cluster.
|
|
520 viewsHere are the resistors...beefy! They are 3 watts each. If you use a smaller wattage resistor they will get hot!! These will get warm but not hot. One is 1-ohm and the other 16-ohms. You wire them in series so you get a total of 17-ohms resistance. So you can use any combination of resistors you want, just shoot for 17-ohms. This puts my gas gauge needle right on the first white mark (left side) of the red Reserve section but the needle will go a little past the Full mark when the tank is topped up. Add more resistance to have the needle move down more but I'm guessing that a total of 20-ohms would be the max to use.
|
|
Alpinestars Youth Vapor Knee Guards520 viewsFit nicely and will easily adjust to a wide variety of leg widths.
|
|
519 views
|
|
519 viewsI used a 7/16" socket -- none of my standard metric sockets fit! -- to carefully snug down the VR. I used the stock sheet metal screw from the original vibrator to secure the VR down. I also put a stainless steel split washer under the head of the screw to help lock the screw in place. Just in case...
|
|
518 viewsUse a split-seam wire loom around the e-brake cable to keep it from rubbing a groove into the insulation.
|
|
518 viewsUsing needle-nosed pliers remove the tits from inside the plug backing for the #16 and #11 holes. Don't remove the others as they fill the holes in the seal.
|
|
518 viewsBefore, low-beam.
|
|
Front view517 viewsDual "buckle" kidney belt is nicely adjustable with Velcro.
|
|
515 views
|
|
515 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).
|
|
515 viewsFeed your pigtail wires in, white with yellow stripe on the left in the #16 hole and the white with orange stripe on the right in the #11 hole. The numbers are on the outside of the black plug.
|
|
515 viewsTo separate the two electrical connectors simply lift the tab (red arrow) and gently pull the male connector (what I'm holding) from the female (top) (yellow arrows).
|
|
514 views
|
|
| 3332 files on 167 page(s) |
 |
21 | |
|
