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493 views
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493 viewsPut the electrical connectors back together. They only go on one way so it's pretty much idiot-resistant. The 2-pin goes on first. Notice the positioning.
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493 viewsIt may not be necessary but I wanted to make sure my ballast wouldn't move around so this is what I did. I cut a notch at the top and bottom of the hourglass brace that the zip-tie would neatly fit in to. This will keep the zip-tie from slipping and thus keep a firm hold on the ballast. A sharp X-acto knife will easily cut through the plastic so operate slowly and carefully.
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Left side493 views
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492 views
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492 viewsTwo terminal connector comes apart just like the three terminal connector.
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491 viewsGroup hug.
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491 viewsI used "Plasti Dip" over the joint as it's an electrical insulator and will protect the joint. It's thick and simply paints on.
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491 viewsSlide/peel the stock grip off.
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490 viewsGetting a bath in the bathroom sink from Grandma Mimi.
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490 viewsHow it looks all wired up.
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489 views
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489 viewsTo remove, simply loosen the bolt a few turns and pull the whole assembly out.
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489 viewsNew light switch plugged in. See the red tab? It's in the 'unlocked' position...
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489 viewsAfter, low-beam.
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488 viewsComes with everything you see here, including a knife for trimming excess film off and a very nice water mister. Follow the instructions! I did use the sharp knife to trim the mounting tabs off (they're only used for positioning the film). I placed the film closest to the inside edge of the lens (near the center of the headlight) to get the best coverage.
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488 viewsBefore, low-beam.
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487 views
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