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480 viewsRonin getting checked out in NICU (baby intensive care). Blood sugars a tiny bit low but that's all.
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480 views
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480 viewsNotice that I put a length of split-loom over the cable and wrapped the insulation over it. Again, the split-loom keep the cable from cutting into the insulation.
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480 viewsI wasn't able to fully wrap this piece. It was a real pain to get the insulation on top of it. Since it is already insulated from the factory I didn't worry much about cutting up some insulation and wrapping the bottom. Maybe at a later date. Notice that I did put an 18" sheet across the top of the heat exchanger ducts that go over the torsion housing. What a pain in the neck! Trying to wrap this section wasn't worth it, with the tubes, guides, wires, and shifter parts all in the way -- very busy area!
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480 viewsHere is the flapper box that sits above the heat exchangers. This is the closed position so all air exits out the "bell" (right-most part of the flapper box) and into the atmosphere. Air is always flowing through the heat exchangers -- it just goes into the interior or vents to the outside.
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480 views...then soldered them together, trimmed off the extra wire, and carefully bent it back on itself.
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480 viewsEmpty clutch housing, ready for the new unit.
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479 viewsThis picture and the next show that the corner is cut and folded onto itself. It's best to have over-lapping than a gap in the insulation.
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479 viewsSame stock cover, different angle.
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479 viewsThe resistor mounts fit in the groove of the rear rubber seat rests.
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479 viewsI didn't get pictures of all the steps after this one because it's a bit fiddly. This shows roughly how you want to start the process of rotating the ballast anti-clockwise and move it a little left of center under that hourglass brace (center of headlight bucket). The electrical cables coming from the ballast will be pointing to the right side of the headlight bucket and the power plug will be up and next to the ignitor when done.
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479 viewsDone! I used a piece of wire sleeve tubing (that black ribbed bit) to protect the power wires from rubbing against the zip-tie and hourglass brace. Most likely it's not necessary but while I was in there...just in case....
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478 views
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478 views
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478 views
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478 viewsHow it looks with the plug put all back together.
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476 viewsI used a small zip-tie to keep the resistors together while working on them. Not critical to have but makes the pack more sturdy and easier to handle. You can also see that I bent the wires back on themselves, essentially making them thicker. This allowed me to crimp spade connectors to them...
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476 viewsThe right grip is held on by a ridge on both ends of the throttle so peel the grip off them.
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Applying the LED array to the head light.476 viewsI started from the top (right side of picture) and carefully removed the LED backing tape as I move towards the front of the head light. Just eye-balled the application but kept it more towards the inside of the light (engine side). This allows more light to be spread out onto the head light lens and disperse the light. I put a rubber tube around the wires to protect them from chaffing against the metal. Be sure to clean the lens well! I used rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.
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Side view, half and half476 viewsLower half with lightest tint applied, LED and top have no film on them.
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