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458 viewsCarvin' 'em up!
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458 viewsUpper triple tree removed. Use a 6mm Allen wrench to loosen all clamping bolts. Alternately tap the bottom of the clip-ons to walk the triple tree and clip-ons up. I used a block of wood positioned under the clip-on and tapped it with a rubber mallet -- just in case I missed the wood!
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457 viewsEntrance to our room upstairs.
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457 views
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457 views
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457 views
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457 viewsUnderside of breather showing PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, part number 022 115 542. Again, home-made gasket between breather and white retaining nut.
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457 views
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457 viewsDetail of the top triple tree with stock clip-ons.
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457 viewsFor the inner belt that runs the vertical (rear) cylinder I made my own mark on the belt and pulley at about the center spot.
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457 viewsHere's how the clutch basket looked. Those streaks are LOTS of thread locker applied at the factory. It leaked out the back side as well. After removing the eight retaining bolts I had to use a drift and tap a couple of the ears on the basket to gently break it free.
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456 viewsThose late night feedings can be tough!
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456 viewsWhat the window lifter looks like with locating spring attached at bottom.
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456 viewsThe view of the installed ladder and hi-risers. Headlight goes back on and the gauge cluster and I'm ready to ride a little more comfortably.
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456 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.
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456 viewsI placed a friction plate back in to measure the gap. I had to use an Allen wrench: 2.5mm. Not good. Max gap is supposed to be no more than 0.6mm!
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With film applied.456 viewsRunning light on.
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456 viewsThe spade connectors snap in. If they are difficult to get out (at a later date, say, when replacing the bulb) you may want to use a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver to push the spade away from the female contact as shown.
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456 viewsPush the power supply wires into the original headlight bulb connector.
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455 views
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